Water vapor on soil pipe dampens walls
Q. I have a big old house with a big old cast-iron vent pipe, the so-called soil pipe that goes from the cellar up through the attic and to the outside. Being of such mass, it stays quite cold, cold enough for water vapor to condense, and in the bathroom, where it is boxed in, the water has dampened the walls around the box, and caused paint to peel and bubble near the box, It is also affecting the tiles, which seem to be spreading. How can I prevent that condensation? I cannot get to the pipe in the attic because it is surrounded by a room.
FRANK, Wareham
A. It sounds unlikely, but it is so. Water vapor is condensing on the pipe and the water is soaking the plaster or plasterboard from inside, causing the paint to peel and the tiles to wander. Any damp plasterboard must be removed, but the real solution is to insulate that pipe. I insulated my big soil pipe by pouring vermiculite insulation down an opening; after 100,000 coffee cans of insulation it finally filled up. You can do that but it would be better to take off a section of that box, and insulate the pipe with 3 1/2-inch fiberglass insulation, or if that is too thick, 1- or 2-inch duct insulation, which has a gray vinyl skin and makes it easy to install it snugly and completely.
Q. You mentioned Tru-Channel storm windows recently, and they sound pretty good. Who makes them, and when I buy some, can I install them myself?
KEEPING WARM
A. Yes, they are quite good, partly because they are simple. They are as airtight as a storm can get. They are made by Harvey Industries, a local company. Call the company to learn what to do. I have 19 of them and I installed them myself. You may not be able to because manufacturers are sometimes reluctant to allow installation by an amateur, although installation projects are often farmed out to installers who are less than perfect.
Here is how I was able to install them myself. I took all the proper-size measurements to an independent lumber store, who ordered the windows to be manufactured to my specs. When they arrived, I simply took them home and put them up. Incidentally, my installation was perfect; for 30 years the windows have remained airtight and easily moved. They will last another 30 to 100 years, and by that time I don't think I will mind a bit. There are, of course, weep holes at the bottom of each window, as required with this type of storm window to allow the release of water vapor and to let rain water drain.
Q. I had replacement windows installed 15 years ago. Now some are fogging up, and they are out of warranty. How can I have them replaced, not the whole window, but just the sash? I don't know the brand name.
KATHERYN SUNDERLAND, Burlington
A. Ah yes, the premature failure of double-glazed windows, and the no-name brand. I don't think they have gotten double-glazing right to this day, except for more practical double-glazing that is made up of two panes that can be separated for cleaning and whatever repair that might be needed, then resealed. For Katheryn, I suggest a careful look at the windows to see if you can find a manufacturer's name. If so, contact him, if he is still in business. Unable to find a name? Call a window repair firm, in the Yellow Pages under Windows - Repairing.
Q. Here we go again. I have pantry moths in my kitchen, and nothing I do seems to help. Can you help?
LOIS NILSON, Revere
A. There is an old saying, it is not a disgrace to get pantry moths (or roaches), only to keep them. So, Lois, you are off the hook. It isn't the moths that are trouble, it is their larvae, which make a real mess in pantries. They came in with the groceries. To get rid of them, destroy all contaminated food and remove uncontaminated boxes, cartons etc. Then clean the shelves within an inch of their lives, and treat with an antiseptic. Also, you can buy pantry pest traps in the Gardens Alive! catalog, 513-354-1482. Ask for the Cupboard Moth Trap or the Pest-Away Trap.
Winter shutdown
More and more people are planning, and hoping, to shut down their houses completely in winter to save fuel while they bask in Florida's or Arizona's sun. When it costs up to $3,000 to keep the house at 52 degrees for 4 to 6 months, shutting down the house makes sense.
No less than five homeowners e-mailed the Handyman asking if a complete shutdown is feasible, if it is safe, and how much it might cost. So, to prevent writer's cramp, the Handyman hereby presents a summary of what to do: turn off the heat, drain the water, and relax, worry free.
Leaving a house cold in winter will not harm its structure, or its furnishings. It is not the cold that hurts things, but the humidity.
First, drain the domestic water (drinking water). A plumber can do this if you don't know how, or you could learn from him. He might charge several hundred dollars for this, including turning the system on in the spring. Then put nontoxic antifreeze in all traps and toilets. Do not use standard auto antifreeze; it is poisonous. Have the water department shut off the water at the house.
If you have a hot air heating system, nothing else has to be done. If you have an air conditioner, make sure any condensation water is drained.
If your heating system is hot water or steam with a boiler and radiators, put nontoxic antifreeze in the system.
Call your appliance dealer to see if anything has to be done with refrigerators and freezers.
Q. When I put in a bathroom in my basement, the shower stall that sits on the concrete floor was caulked around the inside perimeter. It wasn't long before it all came off. So my daughter cleaned the area and put in new tub and shower caulking. It came off again. What can we do?
ANNE GILBERT, Plymouth
A. I think what happened is that there is no groove or indented space at the joint where the caulking can be forced into, forming sort of a key to hold the caulking in place. You could try using an adhesive caulk instead of ordinary caulk, and when you install a bead of it in the joint, press it carefully with a wet finger, to form a concave cove. Or, buy a rigid vinyl cove, with a self-adhesive back, to put in place of the caulking. This is usually used along the joint between tub and wall tile, but it will work in this case.
Q. I have to replace the ceiling in one of the big rooms in my old Victorian house. What is best: Blueboard with a skim coat or plasterboard dry wall? I have plenty of height in the rooms, so lowering the ceiling by 6 inches will make very little difference. Then can I put insulation in the lowered ceiling? Also, can I put up the Blueboard myself and let the pros do the skim coat?
KEVIN
A. You can put up the Blueboard, but it is pretty tricky, because you have to put up furring strips (which must be nailed or screwed to the invisible joists above the ceiling finish) to make sure there is a good surface for nails or screws. You can put insulation in a lowered ceiling, and it may help save a little heat. It will also help reduce noise transmission a little, if that is a concern. As for material, I think Blueboard and skim coat is better, because that skim coat is real plaster, not the paper finish of dry wall.
Globe Handyman on Call Peter Hotton is also in the Styles Section on Thursdays. He is available 1-6 p.m. Tuesdays to answer questions on house repair. Call 617-929-2930. Hotton also chats online about house matters 2-3 p.m. Thursdays. To participate, go to boston.com. Hotton's e-mail is photton@globe.com. 