Cleaning is best route for dirty soffits
Q. The front of my house has a very wide overhang (2 1/2 feet), with large vents. It is painted white, but now it has developed darker stains on the underside. How can I clean them and keep them clean?
NINA FRANK, Brookline
A. The soffit (the underpart) gets dirty because it is out of the weather, which often acts as an automatic house cleaner. What happens: The soffit is nice and shady, therefore, cool. Water vapor condenses on the cool surface and mold spores or dirt land on the damp surface. If it is mold, wash it with a bleach and water solution.
To determine if it is mold, wet a small area with bleach; if it turns white, it is mold. If it does not turn white with the treatment, it is dirt, which can be cleaned off by power washing or a cleaning solution. Part of the problem is that the vents pull air, dirt, and mold spores upward, where they land on the moist soffit. Can't be helped, but that is no reason to close the vent. Heaven forbid!
Prevention? No way. Wash or treat it with bleach and water whenever it gets intolerable.
Q. My bathtub drain is a long device that I can get at by unscrewing the plate holding the lever that opens or closes the drain. It just pulls out, and I have done it several times to clean the device. But this time I cannot get the device out. I can move it a little but it will not release. What can I do?
FRED JONES, Boxborough
A. Such devices usually come out without a struggle. The only thing I can think of is to pour a cup of bleach through the plate opening to try to clean out the grease, oil, and hair that may have jammed it. Leave overnight and try again. If it still won't come out, call a plumber.
Q. I have not seen this problem in your column or nor do I know anyone who can help me. I have two fireplaces, one on the main floor and one below in the basement. There are two "doors" on the left of the lower fireplace for the ashes. We never put ashes down either chute. There is water that I have to vacuum out of one hole at times. I may get as much as five gallons some of the time, and nothing for a long time. Even the fireplace men don't know why. I was thinking if it is a dirt bottom, could I just fill it with concrete to keep the water from coming up from the earth?
LYNN S., Chicago, or suburbs
A. What you have is a sump in the fireplace. It was originally designed as an ash dump, except you can't put many ashes in it. Although it is not designed as a sump, it is working as one: When the water table (underground water) rises below the basement slab, it will enter that chute. When the water table recedes (as during a long period without rain), the water will dissipate; and for some periods, there will be no water in the chute. That is what I am guessing, especially if the water does not smell like sewage. I have no idea why the other hole does not fill with water.
So, do not fill the hole with concrete. Rising water will simply go around the concrete and flood the fireplace. If the water does not rise above the opening (to flood the fireplace), then there is nothing you have to worry about. If it floods the fireplace and floor on occasion, you can install a sump in another area and a pump to pump out the excess water.
Q. I need an answer as to who is responsible for the buried electric cables that go from the street to my house.
STYMIED in Burlington
A. I am pretty sure you are responsible for anything from the street to the house. In 44 years in my own house, I was responsible for replacing a water line from the street to the house, for sewer line installation, for the removal of gas lines, and for moving wires when I had to replace a corner board, and come to think of it, for moving a telephone line, and installing cable. By responsible I mean I paid for it. So you have to, too.
Q. When I was cleaning my gutters last month, I noticed small patches of moss on my black roof shingles, some along the edges, and some in the slots between tabs. It was somewhat alarming, so I called you. Also, I see some darker spots on the shingles, as if they are wet. Is there anything I should do? Also, some of my trim boards are rotting. Can I replace those boards with Azec?
JOHN SEARS, North Grafton
A. Don't worry about a few clumps of moss. I have some and while I removed some, I am not bothering with taking off any more. By the time they rot my shingles, the roof will need replacing. You can scrub off the moss with a dry scrub brush or scrape it off with a wide putty knife. Or do nothing. The dark spots on your shingles are mold; treat them with bleach and water.
As for the Azec, by all means, go for it; Azec is a solid vinyl board that comes in all shapes and sizes. If you like white, Azec is perfect for you, although it can be painted. But why bother? I replaced the white painted balusters on a low railing on top of my front porch because I got tired of painting them, and they have looked good for nearly two years. I am not a big fan of vinyl (mainly siding), but these balusters are just the ticket.
Q. My dryer is in a half-bath, with the metal duct going through the wall to the outside. When the dryer is not working, that room gets very cold. Could I put a proper closure on the outside to prevent that cold air from filling the duct? Or should I change the duct to something that is insulated?
CHILLY IN THE HALF-BATH
A. You could try insulating the duct with, of all things, duct insulation. But here is an idea that is more work but may be more effective: Bring the duct to the wall, then turn it down about 12 inches so it comes to the outside somewhat lower than before. This is a sort of air lock that allows the vertical part to fill with cold air, and keeps the cold air from going further into the room. Some bottom-vented stoves have this arrangement.
Q. Help! The National Guard painted a huge orange X on my beautiful house covered with smooth Roman brick, during Katrina's fury. I know the house is beautiful because I designed it. The Guard said the paint is street-marking paint. I treated the paint with Citristrip, but it only lightened the garish color. How can I get rid of it?
MILDRED SCIVICQUE, New Orleans
A. The Guard should do it, but it probably doesn't know how. Citristrip, despite its misspelling, is a mild paint stripper, so I think you should try a stronger one containing methylene chloride, such as Stripeeze or 5F5. These strippers can be used on top of each other, so applying two coats may be more effective than one. Also, try Googling "traffic paint" to see if the manufacturers have a way of removing it.
Q. My brick steps get very icy when I don't clean out my gutters. What's the best way to fight that ice?
SLIPPING
A. Salt, which lowers the freezing temp and keeps the ice soft enough to walk on and to scrape away. Ordinary salt will destroy the mortar between the bricks, but you can find a de-icer that does not contain salt. It is called Safety-Freeze and other names, and it is very expensive.
Globe Handyman on Call Peter Hotton is also in the g section on Thursdays. He is available 1-6 p.m. Tuesdays to answer questions on house repair. Call 617-929-2930. Hotton also chats online about house matters 2-3 p.m. Thursdays. To participate, go to www.Boston.com. Hotton's email is photton@globe.com.
