Skiing, and more

Lovers of snow sports flock to this "alpine" village from mid-November through April. Called by some the "ski capital of the East," Stowe is home to Vermont's highest peak, Mount Mansfield (4,393 feet), and at its side, Spruce Mountain (3,020). The area and its 48 ski runs may be what attract first-time visitors, but what brings them back are its community and extensive menu of activities.

In Stowe everything centers on Main Street and Mountain Road. There's not a mall store to be found but there is the requisite white-steepled church. Stowe has 70 unique shops, 40-some restaurants, and almost 50 lodging establishments.

Locals who are devoted to their community and always willing to pitch in for a neighbor or guest are an integral part of the tourist experience. Their pictures grace the walls of the Main Street Market and Deli, and they are a highlight of the town's Carnival parade.

Non-downhill skiers can enjoy snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, or get a spa treatment.

At the 33d Stowe Winter Carnival Jan. 19-21 there will be activities for young and old, including an ice-carving competition, snow volleyball tournament, and a traditional chicken pie supper.

Play

Carnival weekend or not, there is no lack for winter things to do in Stowe.

The award-winning 5.3-mile Stowe Recreation Path is perfect for snowshoeing and cross-country skiing. In snow-free months, it is a great walking, jogging, and biking path. The West Branch River accompanies you much of the way.

Ski, ski, ski. For true novices to the most expert, the Mount Mansfield area needs no introduction. For tickets and information, call 800-253-4754, or visit stowe.com. For a change of pace, try a sleigh ride. Choose from the many options at gostowe.com.

Choosing among Stowe's dozens of restaurants can be problematic. Here's a little help.

The Whip Bar and Grill (at the Green Mountain Inn, 18 Main St., 800-253-7302, entrees $17.95-$25.95) boasts of having Stowe's first liquor license and a long history of fine dining. Try the filet mignon encrusted in blue cheese and leave room for dessert, especially the Sac de Bon Bon, a chocolate bag filled with chocolate mousse, surrounded by raspberry coulis, fresh fruit, and whipped cream.

Hang out with the locals at Gracie's (1652 Mountain Road, 802-253-6888, entrees $14.95-$27.95; burgers $8.50-$12.50). Named after the owners' (now deceased) dog, it might appeal most to those who like canine decor. But the burgers, ribs, steaks, and fish, the homemade bread and soups are moderately priced, and when the restaurant moved last year, the crowds followed Gracie's from Main Street to Mountain Road .

Don't leave Stowe without having at least one breakfast at McCarthy's Restaurant (454 Mountain Road, 802-253-8626, $4-$6). Try the apple pancakes or the warm pumpkin bread topped with cream cheese. (If you call ahead, they'll make a loaf for you to take home.)

At Main Street Market and Deli (in the Old Depot Building, 802-253-0077, $3-$6.25), you can read local newspaper articles placed under a glass cover on your table. Try the No. 2, turkey, cranberry mayonnaise, maple mustard, and lettuce and tomato on sourdough bread -- far and away the favorite at $6.25 -- or a bowl of soup for $3.

Spend

At Stowe Craft Gallery (55 Mountain Road, 877-456-8388, stowecraft.com/) choose from jewelry, pottery, toys, furniture, fine arts, glass and rugs, all made by well-established craftspeople. Voted one of the top 100 craft galleries in the United States.

Vermont Furniture Works (38 Main St., 802-253-5094, vtfurnitureworks.com) sells made-to-order furniture and decorations crafted by Vermont artisans, but samples are displayed in the cozy shop.

Less than a half-mile from the village, In Company Clothing (344 Mountain Road, 802-253-4595) specializes in men and women's upscale clothing. The surroundings are gorgeous and you get lots of personal attention from the owners.

Rest

At the Green Mountain Inn (18 Main St., 800-253-7302, greenmountaininn.com, $149-$749 in season) innkeeper Patti Clark, a Stowe native, is a walking encyclopedia of the area. Green Mountain, with its 104 guest rooms, is a good choice if you want a larger establishment with varied accommodations.

At Brass Lantern B&B Inn (717 Maple St., Route 100, 800-729-2980, brasslanterninn.com, $89-$195), owners Joe and Nancy Beres offer nine renovated rooms and outstanding mountain views. The Bereses, who were Stowe tourists for years before taking over the inn, say their guests go through about three dozen of Nancy's home-baked cookies every day.

Trapp Family Lodge (700 Trapp Hill Road, 800-826-7000, trappfamily.com, $285-$485) is a 10-minute drive from Main Street. Set on 2,700 acres, the 96-room lodge and locale reminiscent of Austria makes guests feel like extras on the set of "The Sound of Music" with breathtaking views of the valley, cross-country skiing at its doorstep, and nightly live music. Hospitality reaches a new high.

Do

Ben and Jerry's ice cream factory (Route 100, just north of exit 10 from Interstate 89, 866- BJ-TOURS, adults $3, seniors $2, children under age 12 free) offers 30-minute tours for ice cream lovers of all ages. Samples included. Don't miss the graveyard of retired flavors.

Watch cider production at the Cold Hollow Cider Mills (3600 Waterbury-Stowe Road, Route 100, 800-327-7537, coldhollow.com). You won't be able to resist their legendary cider doughnuts, named by Gourmet magazine as one of the four best doughnuts in the country.

Visit the Vermont Ski Museum (in Old Town Hall, 1 South Main St., at the intersection of Routes 100 and 108, vermontskimuseum.org, $3 donation suggested, $5 per family). See how skiing used to be at this 1818 building on the National Register of Historic Places.

Party

The Rusty Nail Bar and Grille (1190 Mountain Road, 802-253-6245, rustynailbar.com) is the place to see and be seen après ski. Visitors and natives hang out here to listen to music, eat, and dance. Starting in mid-January, there is an outdoor bar sculpted from 30 to 40 blocks of ice, each weighing 300 pounds. The over-21 crowd heads here after the Village Night parade during Carnival.

The Matterhorn Bar (4969 Mountain Road, 802-253-8198) is best known for pizza and good live music, another spot for those who still have energy after a day on the slopes.