A mountain of fun

Waterville Valley, which sits at the end of a nearly 12-mile-long road that follows the chilly Mad River , has been attracting mountain travelers since 1829 . Surrounded by the White Mountain National Forest, skiers began cutting trails in the 1930s. The valley received a face lift in 1965, when Olympic skier Tom Corcoran and his Waterville Co. purchased about 450 acres of land for a four-season resort, which opened a year later . The self-contained, pedestrian-friendly village two miles from the ski area contains the Waterville Valley Conference and Event Center and is anchored by the shops, hotels, condos, and restaurants of Town Square at the foot of Corcoran's Pond . There's no ski town sprawl. Winter pursuits give way to fair-weather recreation the rest of the year.

Do

It will soon be time for spring skiing at Waterville Valley's groomed boulevards, classic runs, and new school terrain parks (1 Ski Area Road, 800-468-2553 ,waterville.com, adults $59, ages 13-18 $49, 6-12 and 65 and over $35, save $10 online). The White Mountain resort once held World Cup races, but now has a family focus.

Waterville Valley's Nordic Center sports 40 miles of trails (Town Square, 603-236-4666, waterville.com, adults $16, juniors and seniors $12, rentals, lessons, snowshoeing) that take cross-country skiers from Town Square to the backcountry. Bert's Yurt is new on the North End trails.

Swing into spring on Waterville Valley Golf Club's nine holes (Valley Road, 603-236-4805, waterville.com, May-October) or Campton's 18-hole Owl's Nest Golf Club and Resort (40 Clubhouse Lane, 888-695-6378, owlsnestgolf.com, May-October) . Tennis is a summer mainstay on Waterville Valley Tennis Center's clay courts (Route 49, 603-236-4840, wvtennis.com, mid-May-Columbus Day) .

Rest

Many accommodations are an easy walk to Town Square and served by free blue shuttle buses between the community and ski area daily until 5 p.m.

Town Square Condominiums (Town Square, 800-468-2553, townsquarecondos.com, $99-$330, seasonal) are above the Town Square action.

The Golden Eagle Lodge (6 Snow's Brook Road, 888-703-2453, goldeneaglelodge.com, from $215, seasonal) is in the spirit of a grand hotel with stone masonry and luxury tower suites on the ends.

The Black Bear Lodge (3 Village Road, 800-349-2327, black-bear-lodge.com, $110-$250, seasonal) is family-oriented with queen, pull-down Murphy, and pullout trundle beds in each room.

Party

Après-ski begins for 20-somethings at Buckets Bones and Brews deck side in the upper base lodge (603-236-8311, ext. 3142, waterville.com, $6-$18).

Also slope side is T-Bars (above Top Dog Rentals , 603-236-8311, ext. 3052, waterville.com, $7.30-$11.50) with its sandwiches, soups, and Sunday brunch egg-tini -- scrambled eggs in a martini glass.

Town Square is where sports bar Legends 1291 (603-236-4678, waterville.com, $3.99-$11.99) features big-screen TVs, and dancing Fridays and Saturdays.

Flow with the river along Route 49 to Campton's Mad River Tavern (Route 49, 603-726-4290, madtav.com, lunch $4.50-$8.50, dinner $7.50-$22.99) and grab free popcorn before hoisting a few with the locals.

Fuel

In Town Square, the morning begins upstairs in the Coffee Emporium (603-236-4021, waterville.com, breakfast $1.50-$5.50). Find groceries, coffee shop, and baked goods at the down-home Jugtown Country Store (603-236-8662, jugtowncountrystore.com).

For a quick bite, try Jugtown Sandwich Shop (603-236-3669, jugtowncountrystore.com, sandwiches $1.99-$6.99) or grab a pizza at Olde Waterville Pizza Co. ( 603-236-3663, waterville.com, lunch and dinner ($3.99-$11.49).

The warm, maroon decor of Diamond's Edge North upstairs (603-236-2006, diamondsedgenorth.com, dinner $8-$26) is casual, but the food is upscale and expressive.

Play

Children become skilled skiers and snowboarders at Kids Venture Kamps (base lodge, 800-468-2553, waterville.com, $78 full day, $60 half day, rentals $20).

Skate indoors at the Waterville Valley Ice Arena (Town Square, 603-236-4813, watervillevalley.org, adults $5, children under age 12 $4, skate rentals $4) .

Children will like the pools and game room at the White Mountain Athletic Center (Route 49, 603-236-8303, wmacwv.com.) The Recreation Department (Noon Peak Road, 603-236-4695, watervillevalley.org, various fees) organizes many kids' activities.

Watch the Town Square fireworks on winter Saturday nights or take a sleigh ride (603-236-8175, $12, ages 2-12 $6) .

Spend

Stroll Town Square with its shops and pond side gazebo. Pick up a light read at the Bookmonger (603-236-4544) , which also houses Toad Hall Toys . Dreams and Visions (603-236-2020) has gifts and collectibles from around the globe. A sweet tooth can be satisfied in the old-fashioned Mountains of Chocolate (603-236-3301) . Visit waterville.com for information on those shops.

South of Waterville Valley is Campton Falls Marketplace (Route 49, 603-726-7162, camptonfallsmarketplace.com) with its groceries, cafe, and Artistic Roots Art Center (603-726-7101, artisticroots.com) , a nicely stocked gallery offering classes.