Come the midnight hour on Thursdays, ZuZu is awash with the groovy tunes of Mambo Beat Club. The evening starts a couple hours earlier with mellow lounge jazz. Then, as diners dwindle and revelers mingle, the night’s host, Beat Train, amps up the small, pretty room with sixties pop, soul, and eclectic dance obscurities. Welcome to the era when Courreges and Cardin imagined a brave new design world called mod.

— Linda Laban, Globe Correspondent