Curtis’ Bar-B-Q

“Back in the hippie days,’’ drawls Curtis Tuff, “I was the guy who’d dig a pit and cook whole pigs for the parties and the concerts.’’ The flower children may be gone (well, mostly gone in Putney), but Tuff hangs on. The pioneer of New England Southern barbecue is in his 41st year of cooking and serving pit-smoked chicken and ribs from roadside digs just south of town. Service is from a blue school bus, and the seating is outdoor picnic style. While many New England barbecue cooks use closed-container smokers, Tuff works a powerfully smoky grill over an open pit. A stop here is a ritual for many out-of-staters. As folks pack up their trash and head to their cars, they usually pause to bid Tuff adieu. “See you next year!’’ they always exclaim. “Next year!’’ he always agrees.

7 Putney Landing Road, Putney, Vt. 802-387-5474, www.curtisbbqvt.com. Open April-October Thursday-Sunday for lunch and dinner. $4.59-$27.99.