Moat Mountain Smokehouse & Brewing Co.

Beer and barbecue are natural partners, so it’s no surprise that co-owner Steve Johnson acknowledges that “barbecue was always key to our concept’’ since his ski-country brew pub opened nine years ago. The menu has grown to embrace a number of un-Southern items (a line of wood-grilled pizzas, for example), but St. Louis ribs and pulled pork remain staples. Johnson’s favorite is the Texas-style brisket smoked for 14 hours with cottonwood and served with a spicy Austin sauce that gets its kick from mustard and horseradish. The barbecue is all dry-rubbed before cooking, but Moat Mountain serves it all “wet,’’ i.e., chopped and mixed with sauce.

3378 White Mountain Highway (Route 16), North Conway, N.H. 603-356-6381, www.moatmountain.com. Open daily for lunch and dinner. $6.99-$24.99.