Buck’s Naked BBQ

The barbecue at Buck’s has just as pronounced a smoke ring, but sauces come on the side. That’s because owners Alex and Wendy Caisse are hard-core barbecue purists. “Most places slather the plate with sauce,’’ says Alex, “and you can’t taste the meat. We make what I call ‘righteous’ barbecue, which takes time.’’ Indeed, the cooking starts around 4 a.m. in Freeport, since chickens smoke for about three hours and brisket up to 13. Already somewhat notorious for its name (“Buck’’ is a cartoon pig mascot), Buck’s Naked BBQ turned a lot of heads in August when Caisse and crew barbecued lobster in a benefit for the state lobster promotion board. “We parboiled the lobsters and then finished them in the smoker so the smoke wouldn’t overwhelm the delicate meat,’’ he says. “They were so good that we’ll be offering them as a special on the weekends.’’

568 Route 1, Freeport, Maine. 207-865-0600, www.bucksnaked-bbq.com. Open daily for lunch, dinner. $12.99-$26.99.