SIEM REAP, Cambodia -- If you want to see Angkor the way it was eight centuries ago, as a bustling capital crammed with people, then follow the conventional tour routes. Most tourist materials advise that Angkor Thom, with its central Bayon of towering Buddha faces, is best viewed in the morning light. Angkor Wat, they say, is best viewed in the afternoon.
There's only one problem with that: Thanks to the crowds, you'll never get close enough to the temple walls to appreciate their carvings, or find enough solitude to sense the real serenity of these world wonders. To do that, you have to go where the tour groups don't, primarily by visiting the most popular temples at off-hours and making the trek to the outlying structures.
We tried it both ways. On our first day, we visited at peak times with a personal tour guide, who brought the temple walls of the Bayon to life for us.
The second day, however, we hired a driver and paid him extra to venture farther to see Banteay Srei, a jewel box of temple made of rose-hued limestone. Arriving early in the morning, we were greeted only by children selling postcards, drinks, and temple rubbings, so we were able to get close to each of the tapestry-like carvings.
Inspired by the experience, we decided to visit other temples when we'd have them to ourselves. At lunchtime, we explored the ruins of East Mebon and found ourselves alone among the ancient stairways and enormous elephant statues. After lunch, we stopped at Preah Khan, a cavernous stone monument that is being slowly overwhelmed by the jungle.
At day's end, we returned to the Bayon. Unlike the previous morning, when we had to wait to climb up to the towering Buddha faces, we were able to walk around them with only the distant sounds of chattering birds and monkeys to break the silence.
MICHAEL BLANDING AND ALEXANDRA HALL
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