MAUI, Hawaii -- When you see the sugarcane fields, deep green against broad, earthy mountains, and an impossibly blue sky, you will know why you ventured so far to find paradise.
The air is different on Maui. Out in the middle of the Pacific, the breeze is warm and soothing. The scent of ginger flowers becomes familiar and necessary. And every evening's orange sunset comes like a secret you can't wait to share.
Hawaii, particularly the first time, is truly another world. It is a place to indulge your senses, to plan adventures, and to simply kick back and soak up the sun. Sure, it's full of deluxe hotels, movie-star mansions, straight honeymooners, and golf courses that beckon at $150 a round. But Maui also has corners that are rugged and remote. There's a quiet power in the island's history; you see it in the gentle eyes of the Hawaiians. And you feel it in the stark beauty of ocean against lava.
Set aside at least nine days for the trip if you can. On shorter stays, it's hard to forget the 10 hours spent each way on airplanes (from the East Coast). There are plenty of hotels to choose from, but consider, too, the many condos available for rent if you want a bit more space. The sunniest side of the island is Kihei, to the south.
Once you've settled in, a wonderful first stop is the Grand Wailea Resort. Shed your winter skin and indulge in a Terme (''termay") hydrotherapy treatment in a glamorous setting. You'll soak in refreshing mineral baths, douse yourself in hot and cold pools, and get a scrub-down that leaves you revived and ready for action.
The best things to do on Maui are hike and swim. Check out La Perouse, a great place to hike over lava rocks and then snorkel. From the shore, you often can see dolphins swimming, and in winter, whales breaching, theirmighty flops leaving great splashes in their wake. Take a drive up Haleakala, Maui's dormant volcano, and dress warmly -- it's cold at 10,000 feet. Early risers can make the sunrise pilgrimage and cruise back down on bikes.
If you're planning to take a boat tour to snorkel or scuba dive, try for one of the smaller boats. The large tours tend to drop you in mediocre and crowded spots where you see more flailing human legs than colorful fish. Snorkeling at small, unbusy beaches in Maui is truly amazing. You see a huge array of sea life, even turtles if you're lucky.
A popular beach for sun worshipers is Makena, or ''Big Beach," about a mile south of the Maui Prince Hotel. Beware the waves; they're more powerful than you might think. On the way there, stop for lunch at the tastiest deal in town: A fish taco truck (run by gay guys) is parked along the road near Makena most weekdays. For about $6, you get delicious fish tacos with homemade sauce. Locals eat there all the time.
The closest you'll get to a gay beach on Maui is ''Little Beach," a clothing-optional sunbathing spot that's a short walk from the main beach. Turn right as you arrive at the beach at Makena, and climb the steep path over the clay-colored hill that separates the two beaches. The far end is populated mainly by gay men. Everyone's welcome, though, and the snorkeling is fantastic.
On Sunday afternoons, Little Beach is a kick. Hundreds of hippies, drummers, and fire twirlers descend upon this strip of sand and hang out until sunset. Folks swim, chat, and snooze to a growing pulse of bongos. And once the sun slips below the horizon, the real action starts. Barely clad acrobats, holding spears of fire, slice the darkness with fast, deft swirls, to the hypnotic thump of drums. It's a scene you won't soon forget.
The town of Paia, on Maui's north side, is a cool place for lunch and shopping. If you're up for a long, scenic drive, take a day trip to Hana, the wet side of the island. You cruise along a narrow, winding road overlooking cliffs and magnificent ocean. You pass lava fields, small waterfalls, and increasingly lush vegetation as you get closer to tropical Hana. Stop at a roadside shack or two along the way, to buy flowers or fruit.
Ideally, you can spend a night in Hana. That way you could plan to hike the Bamboo Forest, one of the earth's great treasures. Smell the guava fruit on the path that leads to the dense, green expanse of bamboo. It's quiet and otherworldly among those tall stalks, the only sounds the creaking of the bamboo in the wind. At the end, the path opens up to a vast cliff and quiet waterfall. Wear your bathing suit under your hiking clothes and take a dip in the pool. While in Hana, you can also scout out Black Sand Beachat Waianapanapa State Park.
If it's raucous nightlife you're after, Maui's not the place. They roll up the sidewalks at 9 p.m. In fact, it's almost impossible to get dinner at that hour. Hapa's, a nightclub in Kihei, has live bands most nights, and Tuesday is usually gay night. If you're looking for civilization, drive to the port town of Lahaina. It's full of tourist shops, but there's life and activity until later in the evening. There's some great eating in Maui, especially if you like fresh ahi (yellowfin or bigeye tuna). But be picky; ask around. You can spend a lot of money on unmemorable meals. You might go for a traditional luau one night; the show at Old Lahaina Luau is fun, and the food is good.
Outbound, on gay and lesbian travel, appears the fourth Sunday of each month. Beth Daley can be reached at healy@globe.com.
