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If you go

If you go: Salvador, Brazil

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October 17, 2004

How to get there

The lowest round-trip air fare between Boston and Salvador, Brazil, at press time was $892 on United Airlines.

What to do

www.bahia.com.br

General information about Salvador and the state of Bahia.

www.braziltourism.org

For broader information about tourism in Brazil, visit this website of the tourism office at the Brazilian Embassy in Washington.

Tourism Information Office

Rua das Larangeiras, 12, Pelourinho

011-55-71-321-2133 (-2463)

Maps, brochures, and advice on the Pelourinho, the colonial quarter whose cobblestone streets and colorful houses, churches, and bars are Salvador's main attraction.

Igreja e Convento de Sao Francisco

Praa Anchieta, Pelourinho

011-55-71-322-6430

The baroque faade of this 18th-century convent and church gives way to a courtyard of blue Portuguese tile and a sanctuary decorated in a gold leaf arabesque. About 75 cents.

Igreja de Nossa Senhora doRosario dos Pretos

Praa Jose de Alencar, Pelourinho

011-55-71-326-9701

The first Roman Catholic church built for Afro-Brazilian parishioners, its interior features imagery and sculptures of Jesus, the Virgin Mary, and other saints as blacks. Behind the church is a slave cemetery. Free.

Museu Afro-Brasileiro

Praa 15 de Novembro, Pelourinho

011-55-71-321-0383

The museum has ceramics, tapestries, religious icons, and paintings tracing the history of Brazil's African heritage. About 75 cents.

Where to stay

Tropical da Bahia Hotel

Avenida 7 de Setembro, 1537

Campo Grande

011-55-71-255-2000

www.tropicalhotel.com.br

One of several four-star, corporate-friendly hotels near Salvador's beaches and the Pelourinho. Rooms $75-$250 with breakfast.

A Casa das Portas Velhas

Largo da Palma, 6, Santana

011-55-71-324-8400

www.acasadasportasvelhas.com.br

Newly opened, this restored 19th-century mansion offers luxury and chic decor without sacrificing local flavor. Rooms $180-$450, with breakfast.

Where to eat

Restaurante Escola SenacPelourinho

Praa Jose de Alencar, 13, Pelourinho

011-55-71-324-4550

This restaurant school (the waiters are maitre d's in training) lays out a 40-plate buffet of local fare, including vegetable stews, rice dishes, and seafood. Dinner about $8.

Maria Mata Mouro

Rua Inacio Accioli, 8, Pelourinho

011-55-71-321-3929

Hip and happening, the best tables are beneath the treetops of the patio. Steaks and seafood, with a nouveau-Bahian flair. Entrees $12-$20. Daily 12 a.m.- 1 a.m.

Alaide do Feijao

Ladeira do Pax, 2, Pelourinho

011-55-71-321-6775

A down-home joint that, while not for the finicky, serves feijoada as it was meant to be: heaps of beans, rice, and meat in a simple, open-air dining room. About $4.

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