Ski 7 peaks at Canada's 'Top of the World'

BANFF, Alberta -- At the top of Lake Louise ski resort, surrounded by the massive and breathtaking peaks of Banff National Park, one has the distinct impression of being above it all -- literally. At 8,300 feet, that is precisely why it has been nicknamed the ''Top of the World."

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''This week I'll stand atop seven of those peaks," you say to yourself, gazing at mountains that make the Greens of Vermont look like rolling hills. And you can do just that, for about 20 percent less than you'd spend in Colorado or Utah. (Last week, one US dollar bought $1.23 Canadian.)

As a bonus, you're likely to ride the lift with an interesting variety of overseas skiers. The British, for example, will tell you it's a much better value for them to ski Canada than the United States or even continental Europe.

In the Canadian Rockies, you can easily ski or snowboard four world-class resorts on seven peaks in just four days. Within an hour's drive of your Banff condo or hotel, you'll ski Lake Louise, Nakiska, Mount Norquay, and Sunshine.

Day 1: Smart skiers take a complimentary ski tour of the mountain, which is offered at most resorts (groups are arranged according to ability). Lake Louise guides like to show off their wide variety of terrain and are especially keen about a run called Rock Garden.

''There are rocks in there the size of sofas and buses," our guide, Bill, advises. ''My only rule is that you don't ski over any rocks, because you don't know what's on the other side."

Skiing slowly between the boulders is magical. You'll feel as if you've left Earth for a snowy moonscape. It's eerily quiet. The only things you'll hear are the sounds of your breath and your partner's ski occasionally scraping over a rock. (Tip: Pay the extra $5 for insurance on the rental equipment.)

After a big first day on the mountain you'll be starving. An early call for reservations at Banff's Coyote Deli and Grill is recommended. Coyote is easily among the best eats in the region. Don't miss the out-of-this-world chicken corn tortilla soup. One problem with having your first dinner at this snug restaurant -- you may not try another place all week.

Do plan to give other spots a chance, though. Saltlik is great for high-end Alberta beef, hip Earl's is deliciously middle-of-the-road, and for a cheap, hearty breakfast, there's Phil's.

Day 2: You decide to go for the gold. An intimate resort called Nakiska provides the perfect lift: Gold Medal. There are also lifts called Silver and Bronze -- after all, this resort was created for the Winter Olympics, held in Calgary in 1988.   Continued...