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If you go: Moscow

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August 14, 2005

Where to stay

For an excellent overview of what's available, visit this Moscow Hotels website (www.hotels-moscow.ru). They will make the reservations, confirm quickly by e-mail, and charge your credit card.

Golden Ring

5 Smolenskaya Ulitsa

011-7-095-725-0100

www.hotel-goldenring.ru

If you are here on business, you won't do better than this modern high-rise near the Foreign Ministry and the Arbat. Health club, casino, high-speed Internet hookup, and a sumptuous breakfast buffet. Rooms from $270.

National

15/1 Mokhovaya Ulitsa

011-7-095-258-7000

www.national.ru

Lenin slept here, but the place has been lavishly updated since. Steps from Red Square. Rooms from $232.

Ukraina

2/1 Kutuzovsky Prospekt

011-7-095-933-5652

www.ukraina-hotel.ru

If you want a taste of the old Soviet days, try this Stalin Gothic relic on the Moskva River. Though it's short on upscale amenities (and a 10-minute walk from the nearest Metro station), rooms start at just $129.

Where to eat

Cafe Pushkin

26A Tverskoi Bulvar

011-7-095-229-5590

Return to the czarist days, with costumed waiters and old Russian favorites like blini-and-caviar and kvas in a country-house setting. Figure on $60-75 per person. Open 24 hours.

Shinok

2 Ulitsa 1905 Goda

011-7-095-255-0204

A round-the-clock restaurant with a glassed-in barnyard and live animals. The food -- borshch, dumplings, chicken Kiev -- is suitably hearty. From $50 per person.

Knyaz Bagration

58 Ulitsa Plyuschikha

011-7-095-933-7171

Exceptional Georgian food (cheese in mint sauce, lamb soup, baked sturgeon in mushroom sauce in an authentic setting. Entrees $15-$20.

What to do

Kremlin

Though the government buildings are closed to the public, there are enough towers, cathedrals, and palaces to keep you occupied for a day or more. Tickets to the grounds about $10.

Gorky Park

Moscow's version of Central Park, with cafes, amusements, and a boating pond. Take the Metro to Oktyabrskaya Station

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