Where to stay
Conte BiancamanoCorso Vittorio Emanuele, 73
Upstairs in a charming 19th-century palazzo near the train station, with lovely sitting rooms and artwork. Singles $72-$117, doubles $114-$157.
Dogana VecchiaVia Corte d'Appello, 4
The city's oldest hotel, near the Quadrilatero. Mozart and Napoleon slept here. Singles $106, doubles $133.
Ai SavoiaVia del Carmine, 1B
Small but elegant B&B in an 18th-century palazzo near the Piazza Savoia. Doubles $84-$139.
Where to eat
Sotto la MoleVia Montebello, 9
Across the street from the can't-miss-it Mole, it offers imaginative regional cuisine, including the traditional finanziera alla piemontese, a regional dish made from marrow, innards, giblets, and more.
Le Vitel EtonneVia San Francesco da Paola, 4
Vitello tonnato, the veal in tuna sauce, is always on an ever-changing menu, which includes inventive pasta dishes. Don't miss the downstairs wine cellar.
Dai SalettaVia Belfiore 37
Cozy trattoria offering hearty Piedmontese food, including antipasto rustico, agnolotti, and brasato al Barolo, the wine-braised beef.
What to do
Mole AntonellianaVia Montebello 20
The city's towering 19th-century landmark, which offers a stunning view of the city and countryside. The national cinema museum is inside.
Piazza Castello, 189
The royal gardens provide a green diversion in the middle of the city center.
Porta PalazzoPiazza della Repubblica
Europe's biggest open-air market is undergoing a makeover, but everything from food to clothes to housewares is available.