Where to stay
Conte BiancamanoCorso Vittorio Emanuele, 73
011-39-562 3281
www.hotelcontebiancamano.it
Upstairs in a charming 19th-century palazzo near the train station, with lovely sitting rooms and artwork. Singles $72-$117, doubles $114-$157.
Dogana VecchiaVia Corte d'Appello, 4
011-39-436-7272
The city's oldest hotel, near the Quadrilatero. Mozart and Napoleon slept here. Singles $106, doubles $133.
Ai SavoiaVia del Carmine, 1B
www.infinito.it/utenti/aisavoia
011-39-339-125-7711
Small but elegant B&B in an 18th-century palazzo near the Piazza Savoia. Doubles $84-$139.
Where to eat
Sotto la MoleVia Montebello, 9
011-39-817-9398
Across the street from the can't-miss-it Mole, it offers imaginative regional cuisine, including the traditional finanziera alla piemontese, a regional dish made from marrow, innards, giblets, and more.
Le Vitel EtonneVia San Francesco da Paola, 4
011-39-812-4621
Vitello tonnato, the veal in tuna sauce, is always on an ever-changing menu, which includes inventive pasta dishes. Don't miss the downstairs wine cellar.
Dai SalettaVia Belfiore 37
011-39-668-7867
Cozy trattoria offering hearty Piedmontese food, including antipasto rustico, agnolotti, and brasato al Barolo, the wine-braised beef.
What to do
Mole AntonellianaVia Montebello 20
The city's towering 19th-century landmark, which offers a stunning view of the city and countryside. The national cinema museum is inside.
Giardini Reali
Piazza Castello, 189
The royal gardens provide a green diversion in the middle of the city center.
Porta PalazzoPiazza della Repubblica
Europe's biggest open-air market is undergoing a makeover, but everything from food to clothes to housewares is available.
