WHO: Elsa Lichman , 61, of Waltham
WHERE: Silver Bank in the Atlantic Ocean, 60 miles north of the Dominican Republic
WHEN: One week in February
WHY: ``To swim with the humpback whales," said Lichman, who has been fascinated by the giant mammals for more than a decade. The 20-square-mile area is believed to contain the largest population of humpbacks in the world. From January to April, as many as 3,000 to 5,000 whales migrate there en route to area breeding and calving zones.
THIRD TIME IS A CHARM: ``I've gone to Silver Bank twice before. It does become addictive," said Lichman, who always travels with Aquatic Adventures . The group is on the boat for almost a week and there are nine possible times for swimming with whales. Previous trips enjoyed only half that number because of rough seas. This trip hit the perfect nine. ``It was like a miracle," she said.
WHALE WATCH: The 24 passengers, mostly Americans and some Germans, stayed together on a large boat, but divided into two groups on small boats to get to the whales. ``They try to find sleepers, whales that are resting just below the surface," Lichman said. ``You're trying to find whales that seem amenable to you entering their world, and where it's safe for the humans and safe for the whales." The mating ritual involves ``escort" whales, males trying to secure their position next to a female in estrus , and ``challenger" whales, those who compete for the position. What's called a ``rowdy group" occurs when the males battle for dominance. ``That's not a good time to go in, but it's fascinating to be there watching. The whales will fight and actually smash against each other."
EYES WIDE OPEN: ``Most people are wearing bikinis, but I wear an under wetsuit and an over wetsuit, with booties and hood, a snorkel , and a mask with prescription lenses." Touching the whales is prohibited. ``You slide into the water and then you open your eyes and you have no idea what you're going to see. It's absolutely amazing. You might see an escort right under you, then a mother and a calf who really want to spend time with you. But you see the escort just waiting to make sure you're not doing anything he doesn't want you to do. Or you could spend maybe 20 minutes floating over two whales. When they come up it's petrifying. Some people don't mind, but I find it scary every time. As they come up, up, up, you see every little detail. Once I saw a calf nursing. When you're in their world, you see something very natural and extraordinary."
OH, BABY: ``We had one whale that came right to the boat, too young to swim with," Lichman said. ``It was pale gray and the dorsal fin was very floppy. He was probably a week or two old, rolling over right next to us. The whole boat was absolutely screaming and cheering it on."
GO SEE WHERE THEY WENTVisit boston.com/wheretheywent to see other readers' photos. Send suggestions within two weeks of your return to diane@bydianedaniel.com.
