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Shop and go

A plethora of outlet stores and outdoor activities satisfy the masses

Email|Print| Text size + By Beth D'Addono
Globe Correspondent / April 25, 2007

The moose may be Maine's state animal, but a more appropriate symbol of Freeport is the shopping bag.

Unlike shopping at a typical outlet mall, bargain hunting in this coastal town is not a cookie- cutter experience. Located about 15 miles north of Portland, Freeport has been a shopper's destination since Leon Leonwood Bean opened the original L.L. Bean store in 1912. Even with its 170-plus shops and businesses, Freeport is the antithesis of a strip mall. The town has maintained its charming New England character by strictly enforcing zoning regulations to preserve the simple architecture along Main Street.

Beyond buying, Freeport offers rugged natural beauty and a chance to recreate in the great outdoors. Just know that the summer season is a short one, with many activities and attractions not open until June. Hikers should come prepared for muddy terrain in April and into May, depending on the rainfall. And if you forgot your mud boots, not to worry. L.L. Bean can fix that.

Spend

Besides L.L. Bean, Freeport offers a range of brand names like Jones New York, J. Crew, Polo Ralph Lauren , and Burberry . A few of the stores, including Cole Haan , offer regular retail prices, with the discounted goods located downstairs. If you're not sure, ask. As is usually the case, some of the best shops are not the national chains. Check Edgecomb Potters (8 School St., 207-865-1705, edgecombpotters.com) for stunning Maine-fired decorative and functional pottery and artsy jewelry.

At the Co/OP Contemporary Clothing Co-operative (140 North Main St., 207-865-2007) a mix of well-known labels are discounted, with many items priced at $19.95.

For all things moose, the Mangy Moose (112 Main St. 207-865-6414) sells Maine-centric merchandise, from moose-printed boxers to deer antler chandeliers.

Do

Donnie and Lee Thibodeau had to come up with something new to do with all of their potatoes, so the brothers and a few partners decided to make vodka. The resulting premium Cold River Vodka, made with Maine potatoes, is handcrafted, bottled, and corked right in Freeport. Tour the small distillery (437 US Route 1, 207-865-4828, coldrivervodka.com ), which unfortunately can't offer samples.

Another area calling card, of a nonalcoholic variety, is the Desert of Maine (95 Desert Road, 207-865-6962, www. desertofmaine.com ) open early May through October. There's actually a desert ecosystem, caused by 19th-century soil erosion, revealing a landscape of giant sand dunes. Take a narrated coach tour or a self-guided walk through the 40 acres of sand that was once Tuttle Farm. Kids will love the gem hunt (stones have been scattered in a section of the desert for treasure hunters to uncover).

Party

Mainers don't disco, generally speaking, but there are plenty of pubs where you can rub elbows with the locals, with some offering live music on weekends during the season. Check out Buck's Naked BBQ (132 US Route 1, 207-865-0600), a roadhouse scene that combines gorgeously smoked swine with a varying menu of entertainment, from film screenings on Tuesdays and Wednesdays to open mike on Thursdays, and bands playing everything from rock to blues most weekends.

A free open-air summer concert series, sponsored by L.L. Bean, (llbean.com/shop/retailStores/calendar.html ) takes place Saturdays and some Sundays at 7:30 p.m. June 7-Sept. 2. National names like Mary Chapin Carpenter, Arlo Guthrie, and the Indigo Girls perform.

Live music, from folk to blues, is featured at Gritty McDuff's (Lower Main Street, 207-865-4321, grittys.com), a pleasingly raucous brewpub.

For a completely different take on night life, visit Blueberry Pond Observatory (355 Libby Road, Pownal, 207-688-4410, blueberryobservatory.com ), where serious telescopes offer brilliant views of the night sky just five miles from town. This is for serious galactic adventurers only -- two - hour sky "tours" cost $160 for two adults, $200 for four adults, with children 12 and under free.

Fuel

For breakfast, stop by Isabella's Sticky Buns Bakery & Cafe (2 School St., 207-865-6635, $3.95-$6.95), a funky little downstairs cafe that offers blueberry pancakes, made with sweet Maine berries and topped with maple syrup.

Local pride is always on the menu at the Broad Arrow Tavern (162 Main St., 207-865-9377, harraseeketinn.com, $10-$30 ), the Harraseeket Inn's family-friendly pub. The menu lists dozens of Maine-based farms and purveyors, from nearby Wolfe's Neck Farm , which raises grass-fed beef, to Potts Harbor Lobster for crustaceans and Sparky's for local organic honey. The expansive $16 lunch buffet is the way to go midday. If you're lucky, there will be Boston cream pie on the dessert table.

The historic Jameson Tavern (115 Main St., 207-865-4196, jamesontavern.com, $17.95-$23.95 ), the spot where 19th-century separatists wrangled over the details of autonomy from Massachusetts, offers terrific prime rib.

For a more upscale, contemporary vibe, head to Azure Cafe (123 Main St., 207-865-1237, azurecafe.com, $12-$28.75 ), a service-oriented Italian grill that specializes in pasta, grilled seafood, and a spicy Sicilian-style cioppino brimming with local fish and lobster.

Play

Take a picnic to Wolfe's Neck Woods State Park (426 Wolfe's Neck Road, 207-865-4465, maine.gov), 200 acres of salt marsh and hemlock, with five miles of hiking trails, some along the rocky shores of Casco Bay and the Harraseeket River .

On the way to or from, stop by Wolfe's Neck Farm (184 Burnett Road, 207-865-4469, wolfesneckfarm.org) . There's an organic vegetable garden, farm animals, including herds of naturally raised beef, and special programs for kids, depending on the season. Hiking and camping is offered on the farm at Recompense Campground facing Casco Bay.

From Memorial Day through the end of October, you can take a ride on Atlantic Seal Cruises (25 Main St., South Freeport, 207-865-6112), which might include a visit to the museum house of Admiral Perry, a view of wildlife such as seals and ospreys, and a lobstering demonstration from the gregarious Captain Tom Ring .

Rest

You can lay your head down here at everything from a Super 8 motel to a traditional New England inn, depending on your budget. Located just a few blocks off the main drag, the Hilton Garden Inn (5 Park St., 207-865-1433, hiltongardeninn.hilton.com, $139-$299 ) offers spacious, comfortable rooms, free Wi-Fi, a full breakfast, and a bar.

You'll find more Maine character at the family-owned Harraseeket Inn (162 Main St., 207-865-9377, harraseeketinn.com, $109-$299 ). Many rooms have fireplaces and some have Jacuzzis. The elegant Maine Dining Room is a favorite of John Travolta, who often stops by for a bite on his way to his hideaway north of Freeport.

There are several bed-and-breakfasts in town, including the cozy Applewood Inn (8 Holbrook St., 207-865-9705, applewoodusa.com, $200 ), located in the shadow of the L.L. Bean store. Rooms are homey. There are hammocks for swinging and four resident Labrador retrievers are expert at welcoming guests.

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