A zebra longwing (the Florida state butterfly) explores a ginger blossom far from home at the Cleveland Botanical Garden.
(JON FOBES)
CLEVELAND -- The bigger the city, the more usual it is that attractions are scattered about. But not here, where University Circle is a square-mile hub of cultural, educational, and health resources.
Over a weekend in Ohio's second biggest city (behind Columbus), the tough decision was where to spend a leisurely Saturday afternoon in this compact area miles east of downtown. With spring in the air, the Cleveland Botanical Garden, with indoor and outdoor habitats, won hands down.
Like its specimens, the garden has evolved since it was founded in 1930 as the Garden Center of Greater Cleveland, the first of its kind for a US city. Housed in a boathouse on University Circle's Wade Park Lagoon, it offered a horticultural library, gardening classes, and community beautification programs. In 1966, it moved to its current location, the former site of the local zoo. In 1994, the board changed the name and authorized a renovation and expansion designed by Graham Gund Architects of Cambridge. Completed four years ago, the complex includes a cafe, gallery, retail store, the Eleanor Squire Library with 17,000 volumes, and the Eleanor Amstrong Smith Glasshouse. The stunning conservatory -- 18,000 square feet and 60 feet high -- showcases the threatened habitats of Madagascar's spiny desert and Costa Rica's cloud forest.
"When the Glasshouse opened in 2003, the garden went from seasonal to a year-round destination," said Cynthia Druckenbrod, horticulture director, in a telephone interview.
Our visit began outdoors where 10 acres of formal and informal plantings are organized around 10 theme "rooms." Among them are the Sears-Swetland Rose Garden, Hershey Children's Garden, Western Reserve Herb Society Garden, Japanese Garden, Ohio Woodland, and Elizabeth and Nona Evans Restorative Garden.
Knowing an aquilegia from a hosta isn't a prerequisite for enjoyment because you can learn as you go. Most perennials, herbs, roses, shrubs, and trees bear labels with botanical and common names. The labels were particularly helpful in identifying the wide selection of shade-loving hostas. My sister learned the name of a mystery shrub she and her husband had received years ago: The lacy white blossoms on a double file viburnum matched their plant.
In visitors with or without green thumbs, the roses will provoke envy. Even on the cusp of June's big burst of blooms and fragrance, we could still appreciate early bloomers and the wide variety in the garden's 100 species. The tall, bushy heirloom roses with historical names like President Harrison caught my fancy.
"The heirlooms, planted here in 1996, represent species of roses that were created in the early 1900s," said Druckenbrod. "They have a wild look and are super fragrant."
The garden takes an eco-friendly approach with roses and other plantings. "By choosing climbing and shrub roses that are easy to maintain, we're able to get away from chemicals," Druckenbrod said. "New controls -- soaps, oils -- have been developed over the years. As a result, we're able to show people that you can garden without the use of chemicals to control bugs."
We finished our day in the Glasshouse, a unique conservatory that exhibits plants in their ecological context. The contrast in the divided building is striking: Madagascar is dry and hot, Costa Rica hot and humid. Pass through the double doors from the desert into the tropical forest and the humidity wilts your hair and energy.
Colorful butterflies and birds flying everywhere are part of the tropical ambience. People whip out cameras to capture cobalt honey creepers and purple and yellow euphonia resting on branches, or snap butterflies in a rare still moment. From the canopy walkway -- 25 feet above the floor -- one gets a bird's-eye view of the forest.
Druckenbrod said they purchase 200 butterflies a week from a farmer in Costa Rica. "Every Wednesday we pin up examples of the pupae we've received and people can see them hatch. Every day at 2 p.m., we bring up and release new butterflies, usually a few dozen. Butterflies are one of the few animals not separated from people by glass.
"On a sunny winter day I love going into the Glasshouse," she said. "It makes me feel like I'm in Costa Rica while there's snow outside."
Jan Shepherd, a freelance writer in Boston, can be reached at jshep@earthlink.net. 
© Copyright 2008 Globe Newspaper Company.
