From Soviet souvenirs to nesting dolls of Sox

Weekends are the busiest times at this sprawling, three-level, open air Moscow bazaar. (Necee Regis for the Boston Globe)

MOSCOW - Izmaylovo Market is the place to shop for souvenirs here, with hundreds of sellers offering wares from rugs to jewelry, fur hats to hand-painted matryoshka (nesting) dolls. This sprawling, three-level, open-air market is located on the Moscow metro line, where its tall fairy-tale towers and a fortress-like wall make it easy to find.

Weekends are the busiest time. The ground level has folk souvenirs including traditional garb, Soviet memorabilia, lacquer boxes, icons, fur hats, hand-knitted scarves, and pottery. Savvy artisans have adapted their crafts to appeal to US tourists by painting their famous nesting dolls with images of American politicians and sports stars. My Red Sox 2004 championship set includes portraits, from large to small, of Curt Schilling, Manny Ramirez, David Ortiz, Trot Nixon, and Jason Varitek.

Dealers on the upper tiers sell yard sale knickknacks and also original oil paintings, quality carpets, and antiques. It helps to compare prices before making a purchase, and bargaining is not only allowed, but expected. Occasional live entertainment lends a festive air even on the bleakest winter day. When snow covers the ground, you can refuel and warm up at a sausage station, blini tent, or purchase hot tea (or vodka!) from peddlers who ply their trade from shopping carts pushed between rows of vendors. Nostrovia!

Izmaylovsky Park (Ismaylovsky Park station on the Metro), Moscow. Open daily, but the vendors show up in the greatest numbers on weekends between 10 a.m. and 6 p.m.