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Rave

In San Juan, a sweet discovery

By Christopher Muther
Globe Staff / June 27, 2010

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SAN JUAN — It was my third, maybe fourth trip to Puerto Rico, and unlike my other vacations to the island I was not blessed this time with a string of perfect cloudless days. But the silver lining to all the muggy rain was a chance to explore the city. And it was then that I made a sweet discovery.

At breakfast one morning at La Bombonera, I tried my first pan de Mallorca. The not-too-sweet roll, dusted with powdered sugar, is soft, light, buttery, and nearly perfect. I ordered one grilled with butter.

As it turned out, La Bombonera is as well known for its Mallorcas as it is for its retro interior, complete with glass pastry cases, long lunch counter with red vinyl seats, and tile floors trampled by decades of hungry customers.

Expect to wait in line a while before you get to try your first Mallorca. And if you don’t have a trip planned to Puerto Rico soon, I found a recipe at thenosh ery.com/tag/mallorca that does a fantastic job of replicating La Bombonera’s flaky delicacy.

La Bombonera, 259 Calle de San Francisco, 787-722-0658

CHRISTOPHER MUTHER