Athens: High on a Hill, With an Acropolis View

Greek myth has it that an enraged Athena created Lycabettus Hill after she dropped an uprooted mountain she intended to use for construction of the Acropolis. This “other hill” turned out to be the tallest in Athens, at about 900 feet above sea level. Named after the wolves that allegedly roamed here, the hill is now a sunset hangout for tourists photographing the whitewashed 19th-century Chapel of St. George and the urban panorama below.

But late night is what really electrifies that sweeping view. Darkness hides the city’s modern architectural chaos, and the Parthenon glows like a crown jewel. Lycabettus Hill is peaceful and secluded, which is why it’s a popular make-out spot for young lovers still living with their parents. But the hill is also a welcome after-midnight alternative to the smoky bars, raunchy clubs and howling bouzouki singers in the packed and motley world below.

You can reserve a table with an Acropolis view at the pricey but elegant Orizontes (30-210-722-7065 or 30-210-721-0701) and dig into a late dinner of cabbage dolmades stuffed with sea bass and basil risotto in egg-lemon froth (29.80 euros, or about $46.90 at $1.60 to the euro) or oven-baked prawns with green lemon zest and ginger confit (27.50 euros). There’s also an extensive wine list; bottles start at 25 euros, and there are cheaper offerings by the glass as well as beer and cocktails. The menu, which the chef modifies seasonally, will change again by May.

Many visitors trek up the hill during the day, but at night it’s best to take the funicular to the top. It runs every 30 minutes until 2:30 a.m. from the corner of Aristippou and Ploutarchou in the Kolonaki neighborhood; tickets cost 5.50 euros.