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Intermission

Posted by Tom Haines, Globe Travel Writer  August 1, 2007 01:50 AM

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The town of Berlevag, home to some 1,200 people set hard against the Arctic Ocean at the rounded top of Norway, came to some kind of fame a few years ago with the film "Cool and Crazy".

It was quiet this Sunday afternoon.

boats.jpg

We asked, shortly after arrival, what villagers do on Sundays.

"They're pretty much hungover," one man said.

So we wandered, up to the hilltop Lutheran Church, then past the Neptune Pub. A man sitting on the terrace out front in the 50-degree hours of high summer (it was the third clear day of the season, apparently) looked like one of the members of the men's chorus featured in the documentary.

Up the street, there was no answer on the white door of the red building that is home to the chorus. Faces passed as normal people turned celebrity, then back again. Or were they not singers? That wheel chair in front of the Neptune, a bit later, did that belong to the conductor?

Down by the harbor, two men painted a fishing boat on shore, near some barrels. The light was good for another photo by Essdras Suarez.

barrel.jpg

Visting for only an afternoon was, like watching "Cool and Crazy," a certain kind of voyeurism. As happened with even such a well-made film as that, layers could only be scratched from the surface down, things known only in passing. It was left, then, to watch the people and the sea.

jetty.jpg


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