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In France: Holding candles to cabbage

Posted by guest  December 15, 2008 07:08 AM

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Paris – I want Stéphane Chevassus to cook all of my vegetables.
This is my first impression when I taste his braised cabbage with butter that held my fish aloft at Au Vieux Chêne. If a chef can knock your socks off with plat du jour cabbage, he’s got my vote. Plus, I tried it at home and though it was tasty, I couldn’t hold a candle to Chevassus’s cabbage.
I checked in again recently with mom and everything was up to snuff – a light but creamy pumpkin velouté, fish dishes done just right, little chocolate pastilles (white, milk and dark) served with coffee. Prix fixe lunch for 14 euros and cabbage from heaven.

Au Vieux Chêne
7, rue Dahomey
75011 Paris
+33.1.43.71.67.69
Closed Saturday & Sunday

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Globe travel correspondent Joe Ray writes his own blog, Eating The Motherland and contributes to the English language version of Simon Says! the French food and lifestyle blog run by French food critic Francois Simon.

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