Jimmy Juice time!

It's the cusp of summer and that means, for those of you Portsmouth, N.H.-bound (and those of you 21+, that is), Jimmy Juice is in the air.
A lot of dining establishments claim to be on the waterfront, but The Old Ferry Landing at 10 Ceres St. IS the waterfront. Here, you half-expect a Marlon Brando longshoreman type to pass by, whistling a sea chantey. Perch yourself on The Ferry Landing's outdoor deck, and you can practically toss your clam or mussel shells at the tugboats moored nearby (but please don't). The building was once a ferryboat terminal, back from the days when a boat was the only way to cross the Piscataqua River to Badger's Island in Kittery, Maine. Today, the river views remain, and further upstream, the Route 1 bypass and I-95 bridges loom in the distance.
The solid, no-frills seafood may fill the empty stomach, but people come to the cramped outdoor bar for drinks. If you dare to sample the famous Jimmy Juice, it's best to arrive having already eaten. The bartenders won't reveal the ingredients of this tall and powerful elixir, but it is fruity, it goes down quickly, and it's rumored to contain three varieties of rum. Maybe rocket fuel, too. As my sister Jessica says, nothing good ever came after two Jimmy Juices. Beware and enjoy ...
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Ethan Gilsdorf, a Globe correspondent, is the author of "Fantasy Freaks and Gaming Geeks: An Epic Quest for Reality Among Role Players, Online Gamers, and Other Dwellers of Imaginary Realms," due out in September.
Photo by Jayson Walls for The Boston Globe
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Alternatively, you could say that EVERYTHING good comes after two Jimmy Juices ;-)