In Paris, a steak built for two

H. and I had a peculiar beginning - the ambiguous and nonambiguous fits and starts of a relationship that quickly turns platonic.

 Those questions now years out of the way, we can concentrate on dishing without feeling like it?s been six months or a year since the last time we saw each other. (What better compliment can you pay to a friend?)

  We can also concentrate on what's on our plates. Last time we met, that meant côte de boeuf -- the bicycle built for two of the steak world. "That and a bottle of wine are all you need to bother with here,'' said H., laying down the law of how to order at La Bastringue. She's done the menu sampling for us at this rowdy/friendly 19th arrondissement bistro overlooking the Bassin de la Villette and there's no reason to question her.

 Moments before the steak arrives, a ridiculous-sized plate of salad, mixed veg, and cube-shaped fries is set down. You'll nibble on those, but that's not why you're here. The steak is charred, bloody (lest you want the cook to cry), and very tasty. It might be a bit chewy in spots, but with a steak this big, there's plenty of room to roam. There is no noncarnivorous reason to leave hungry.

Need more convincing? You can get out of there for about 20 euros.

 Le Bastringue
67 Quai de Seine 75019 Paris
011 33 1 40 05 70 00

P.S - I stopped by l'Escargot the other night for a drink and noticed that they have a côte de boeuf on the menu. It's more expensive than down the hill at Bastringue, but that's the next one I'll be trying.

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 Globe travel correspondent Joe Ray writes his own blog, Eating The Motherland and contributes to the English language version of Simon Says, the French food and lifestyle blog run by French food critic Francois Simon.

Photo by Joe Ray for The Boston Globe