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In Paris, a 'welcome back'

Posted by Anne Fitzgerald, Globe Travel Editor  July 22, 2010 10:04 AM

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ari_taxi.jpgPARIS - Id been back in town for 48 hours, my mental Rolodex a little rusty and trying to think of a good place to meet a friend for lunch. My brain falls on a well-worn card.

Taxi Jaune is a perfect "welcome back'' - serving, on this day, radishes with good, sweet, creamy butter and salt flakes - the dish might as well have a little French flag on the top.

Later, Ari and I share mains. A "bavette'' (flank steak) is crunchy on the outside, juicy within - a bite full of flavor, good technique and strong sourcing.

The trout, skin crisp and peeled back like the page of a good book ,reveals something sensual, a kind of "pages turned slowly'' read. There's a fettucine next to it that's so good, it causes me to go home and try to make my own pasta.

Outside, the sun is bright. The city shines like a diamond.

Count on about 20 euros with a drink at lunch.

Le Taxi Jaune - MAP
Paris
01 42 76 00 40

Posted by Joe Ray, Globe correspondent, the 2009 Lowell Thomas Travel Journalist of the Year, and author of the blog Eating The Motherland. Twitter: @joe_diner.

Photo By Joe Ray for The Boston Globe

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