Meet the natives at the market

By Patricia Harris, Globe Correspondent

Something about farm-fresh food breaks down all kinds of social barriers. When I'm on the road, I find farmers' markets are a great place to fall into the rhythm of a city, especially on Saturdays when people are at their relaxed best. When I arrived at the Lexington, Kentucky, Farmers Market at about 9 a.m. this Saturday morning, local farmer Jay Wood had a crowd of eager buyers crowding around him to purchase his ripe red tomatoes, stringless beans, and candy onions. Between bagging orders and making change he told me that he and his children are the fourth and fifth generations to work his family's 100-acre farm. ''It's a real working farm,'' he said with a lot of pride.

As I watched Lexingtonians load up on sweet corn and local peaches and clutch gigantic bouquets of sunflowers, I have to admit that I felt a tinge of envy that Boston's richest harvest season is still a few weeks away. This Saturday gathering (weekly April through November from 7 a. m. to 3 p.m.) downtown in Cheapside Park is almost like a party. Lexingtonians—and their dogs—were in high spirits and a relaxed mood as they went about shopping, socializing, and even grabbing a snack from a French-style crepe stand.

''Be sure to check out Sunrise Bakery,'' a woman told me as she examined jars of honey. So I followed shoppers toting bags and baskets to this tiny bakery (111 West Main St., open Thursday through Saturday), where outdoor tables were filled with people eating chocolate croissants, salt bagels, giant cinnamon buns, and ham and cheese biscuits as they read newspapers and planned the rest of the day.

If only I had a spot to cook some of that farm-fresh produce!

Photos by Patricia Harris for the Boston Globe