If you go to Seoul...

If you go . . .

Where to eat

Cafe Slobbie

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DongKyo-dong 163-9


Take the elevator to the fifth floor to find MinGoo Choi’s

favorite lunch spot. $10-$15.


13-8 Noryangjin-dong


Inside the mammoth Noryangjin Fish Market, live fish ordered from the market’s mongers is transformed into South Korea’s take on sushi. (Order fish from a monger and tell him you’ll be dining at BeyolChang and he will take it from there.) Dinner with drinks is about $35.

HoSu SamKyeTang

ShinGil-dong 342-325


There’s really only one thing to order here — Samgyetang — chicken, ginseng, and jujube soup, South Korea’s healthy and famous version of chicken noodle soup, and this is one of the best spots to get it. About $12.

KwanHoon Cafe

KwanHoon-dong 195


A great spot to relax for a coffee or tea in the gallery-rich Insadong neighborhood.

YeoGeoRi PoonNyeon

KwanHoon-Dong 192-36


In an alley parallel to the KwanHoon cafe, a great spot to first try traditional Korean cuisine in a farmhouse-style setting. About $20, including drinks.

Where to stay

Hotel JR

ChongNo-gu, InSa-dong 87



(English-friendly booking can be made on www.agoda.com)

Tucked into an alley near the Jonggak subway station, this is a smart, modern, and economical spot in the center of town. Rooms from $100.

Sophia Guesthouse

SoKyeok-dong 157-1



Mid-range accommodations in a beautiful, traditional home. Cramped quarters are a trade-off for a great location. Ask to be in the main house. About $100.