Antique charms on a modern Connecticut menu

“We made a wrong turn right before the entrance to the castle and ended up at the Hadlyme-Chester ferry, so we decided to take it across the river,’’ said Evans, 28. “We were only going to stay in Chester for an hour or so, but ended up staying there for the better part of the day.’’

They fell in love with Chester, she said, and they are not alone. The historic mill town, which greets visitors with the sound of nearby streams at just about every turn, is a popular tourist destination, retaining its old-fashioned charm, while offering modern amenities.

Founded in 1692 on the west bank of the Connecticut (10 miles north of Long Island Sound), Chester today boasts a thriving arts community with dozens of galleries, upscale boutiques that feature jewelry and crafts made by local artisans, and the famous Goodspeed’s second stage, the Norma Terris Theatre.

“We all support each other here,’’ said Dina Varano, whose shop features handmade jewelry and locally produced craft items, much of it inspired by nature and some of it made from recycled materials. Across the street is Hammered Edge Studio & Gallery, with its inviting farmer’s porch and oversize rocking chairs, which sells everything from one-of-a-kind ornate masks to funky jewelry and beads.

Next door is The Local Beet, a newly opened country-style grocery store that sells fresh fruit and vegetables, bulk grains, granolas, and other items. On a recent rainy afternoon, locals gathered to chat on the covered front porch, while the sounds of Joni Mitchell’s “Circle Game’’ wafted through the open door.

Also on the curved and quaint Main Street is Ceramica, which sells Renaissance-inspired Italian majolica. R.J. Vickers Herbery, on nearby Water Street, is surrounded by beautiful gardens and offers an extensive line of home decor, herbs, teas, and bath and body products.

There are also plenty of restaurants in the village, including the popular Pattaconk 1850 Bar & Grill, with indoor and outdoor seating, which claims the largest draft and bottled beer selection in the valley. Nearby is the River Tavern, which also has indoor and outdoor seating and is a favorite with locals.

The weekly Sunday Market downtown draws locals and tourists alike, with themed festivals celebrating everything from peaches to corn, tomatoes to strawberries (www.chestersundaymarket.com). The annual Chester Fair will be held Aug. 28-30 at Kirtland Terrace, off Route 154 (www.chesterfair.org).

About 15 minutes south of Chester, on the same side of the river, is Essex, home to the Connecticut River Museum. With three floors of exhibitions and a Boat House, which is used as an education center, this is a must-see for children and adults interested in the history of the river. The unspoiled marshlands and tidal wetlands that surround the museum create an intriguing natural environment.

Visitors can also take a steam train and riverboat ride from Essex Station. The 2 1/2-hour narrated tour through the valley is a favorite for kids and adults.

Another scenic town that has much to offer is East Haddam. While a short drive in either direction from Chester will bring motorists to bridges, the Chester-Hadlyme Ferry is the way to cross the river.

Looming 200 feet above the river in East Haddam, which borders the ferry landing in Hadlyme, is the fortress-like Gillette Castle and surrounding 184-acre state park. The unique fieldstone structure was built in 1919 and designed by Hartford native William Hooker Gillette, an actor, director and playwright best known for creating the Broadway stage role of Sir Arthur Conan Doyle’s famous detective, Sherlock Holmes.

The woodwork in the 24-room hilltop castle is impressive, and Gillette’s creative designs - including the oddly shaped windows, the 47 doors of which no two are alike, built-in couches, and a movable table on tracks - can be found throughout.

Also in East Haddam are several state parks, including Devil’s Hopyard with its a beautiful waterfall, and the East Haddam Swing Bridge. Built in 1913, the 899-foot-long structure, which swings open to accommodate river traffic, is reputed to be the longest of its type in the world.

As visitors cross the bridge, the historic Goodspeed Opera House comes into view. Built in 1876, this Victorian structure is a must-see, especially for musical theater buffs. Many of its productions have gone to Broadway. “Camelot’’ is being performed through Sept. 19.

Juliet Pennington can be reached at writeonjuliet@comcast.net.