The Rockland Breakwater Lighthouse is often open to visitors on weekends.
(Hilary Nangle for The Boston Globe)
A TANK AWAY | ROCKLAND, MAINE
Lobsters and much more
Museums, shops dot seaside town
The Rockland Breakwater Lighthouse is often open to visitors on weekends.
(Hilary Nangle for The Boston Globe)
Rockland has emerged from nearby Camden’s shadow to become a mid-coast destination in itself. Lobster boats, ferries, excursion boats, and windjammers move to and fro in its busy harbor; independent shops and galleries encourage browsing; intriguing museums invite exploring. The “Lobster Capital of the World’’ is increasingly earning kudos for its food scene, too.
Stay
The four Historic Inns of Rockland are renowned for bountiful breakfasts and are steps from downtown shops and attractions. Retired windjammer captains Ken and Ellen Barnes own the handsome Captain Lindsey (5 Lindsey St., 800-523-2145, www.lindseyhouse.com, $141-$215), which feels more like a boutique hotel. You can practically roll out of bed and onto the ferry at the pet- and family-friendly Granite Inn (546 Main St., 800-386-9036, www.oldgraniteinn.com, $95-$210). The late 19th-century, Queen Anne-style LimeRock Inn (96 Limerock St., 800-546-3762, www.limerockinn.com, $119-$239) is an architectural gem listed on the National historic register. Rockland’s grand dame is the elegant Berry Manor Inn (81 Talbot Ave., 800-774-5692, www.berrymanorinn.com, $115-$275), which doubles as home to the Pie Moms. If you’re looking for a non-inn-style lodging option, head to neighboring Rockport and check out the Glen Cove Motel (Route 1, Rockport, 800-453-6268, www.glencovemotel.com, April rates $58-$69, including Continental breakfast). The Glen Cove has panoramic views of Penobscot Bay and a trail leading to the rocky shore.Dine
Rockland has an ever-increasing selection of downtown restaurants; even in the off-season, dinner reservations are wise. Ease into the evening at In Good Company (415 Main St., 207-593-9110, www.ingoodcompanymaine.com, $5-$18), a casual wine bar serving a tapas-style menu. Cafe Miranda (15 Oak St., 207-594-2034, www.cafemiranda.com, $15-$28) proclaims it doesn’t serve the food of cowards: Italian, Thai, Mexican, Armenian, German are mixed without fear or prejudice. Cassoulet! Moules Provencal! Steak tartare! Chef’s Lynette Mosher and Robert Krajewski have created a delicious pocket of France downtown at Lily Bistro (421 Main St., 207-594-4141, www.lilybistromaine.com, $18-$22). Craving lobster or seafood? The oceanfront Boathouse Restaurant and Raw Bar (58 Ocean St., 207-596-0600, $10-$30) pairs seafood with great views. For sushi and authentic Japanese, snag a table at Suzuki’s Sushi Bar (419 Main St., 207-596-7447, www.suzukisushi.com, $6-$20); for decent Mex, slip into Sunfire Mexican Grill (488 Main St., 207-594-6196, $8-$16). Reserve well in advance to dine at Primo (2 South Main St., 207-596-0770, www.primorestaurant.com, $10-$42), where James Beard award-winning chef Melissa Kelly hangs her toque. Another James Beard award winner is Waterman’s Beach Lobster (343 Waterman Beach Road, Spruce Head, 207-596-7819, www.watermansbeachlobster.com, $3-market), a classic, seasonal shack serving hot dogs, steamed mussels and clams, lobster dinners, and homemade pies.During the day
Rockland’s repute as an arts destination began with the Farnsworth Art Museum and the After dark
Films, lectures, live music, and more grace the stage and screen at the historic Strand Theater (345 Main St., 207-594-7266, www.rocklandstrand.com), opened in 1923 and restored in 2005. It’s also a venue for many Bay Chamber Concerts (888-707-2770, www.baychamberconcerts.org) events. Concerts, jam sessions, even poetry dances keep early evenings lively at Rock City Books and Cafe (328 Main St., Rockland, 207-594-4123, www.rockcitycoffee.com/secondread.htm), a combination coffeehouse, cafe, and bookstore. Arts in Rockland (www.artsinrockland.com) coordinates an Art Walk every Wednesday evening in June, July, and August, as well as other special arts events.The 2010 edition of Hilary Nangle’s “Moon Coastal Maine’’ is hitting stores now. She can be reached at www.HilaryNangle.com. ![]()
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