Centuries mingle at Vineyard inn

The Mansion House in Vineyard Haven was built after a fire in 2001 destroyed the 19th-century inn that had stood there. (Julie Cumes for The Boston Globe)

VINEYARD HAVEN - A framed photograph on the third-floor landing of Mansion House shows a proud fisherman holding a huge striped bass, next to a curly-haired little girl obviously basking in her father's reflected glory. Today that little girl is the inn's assistant general manager. Nili Beth Goldstein told us she tried to leave, but the call of the island was too strong. After earning a degree at Brandeis University in Waltham, she came back to Martha's Vineyard to help her parents, Sherman and Susan Goldstein, run the inn.

That sense of family and tradition is strong at Mansion House. The wide hallways are lined with black-and-white photographs of the inn dating to the 1920s, and glass cases display Sherm Goldstein's collection of vintage fishing hooks and lures. The aforementioned striper, a 52-pounder, greets diners from above the door of the inn's restaurant, Zephrus.

A short walk from the ferry dock, Mansion House sits like a grand dame at the top of Main Street, a large, gray Victorian trimmed in blue with peach and plum accents and a great wraparound porch. Inside, big windows, cushioned rattan furniture, and baskets of hydrangeas give the pleasant lobby a beach house feel. There's a guest computer in the corner.

We knew the inn had a health club but we were surprised at how large and well equipped it is, with a 75-foot indoor pool, whirlpool, steam room, sauna, treadmills, stationary bikes, ellipticals, an aerobics studio, and a weight room. And all this is in addition to a full-service spa.

Our room on the third floor was bright and airy. Pale yellow walls, crisp white trim, and bed linens in peach and green hues created a summery palette. We had a king bed, a louvered armoire holding a television and refrigerator, a cushioned chair and ottoman, and a small desk. Double doors led to a tiny metal balcony with a black wrought iron table and two chairs with a distant view of the harbor. Sitting there was not for the faint of heart, however, as the view through the grated floor was to the street three floors down.

It was a treat to find decaf coffee and tea packets along with regular beside the single-cup coffeemaker, and that there were both glass mugs and takeout cups with lids. We steered clear of the honor basket with overpriced beverages, snacks, and sweets.

The bathroom had a wide pedestal sink, plenty of lighting over the big mirror, and a hair dryer on the wall. The curved shower rod made the standard tub and shower feel more spacious.

One of the best features of Mansion House is a large rooftop deck overlooking the harbor. On a warm late-summer day there was a nice breeze as we settled into a lounge to sip complimentary lemonade.

We had dinner at Zephrus, a busy, noisy place with funky decor. Vineyard Haven is a dry town, but guests are welcome to bring their own wine and spirits. Regular customers keep bottles of liquor in small wooden lockers with nameplates by the door.

We started with a creamy clam chowder and an artisanal cheese plate with island beach plum jam and Katama honey. The sweet jam and honey nicely complemented the creamy cheddar and sharp blue cheese.

Sirloin with fingerling potatoes and a pole bean salad featured fresh beans. Seared sea scallops arrived atop creamy risotto with a tomato-caper salsa. We enjoyed both but found everything on the salty side. Dessert of raspberry frangipane with almond pastry cream was sweet and light.

Breakfast was a bountiful buffet in Zephrus, with scrambled eggs, sausage, pancakes, pastries, yogurt, and fresh raspberries, blueberries, and strawberries. We ate on the screened-in porch facing Main Street, with its retro angle parking, a perfect spot for people- watching. Zephrus serves breakfast to inn guests only, but is open to the public for lunch and dinner.

Mansion House burned to the ground in 2001, Nili Goldstein told us. Her parents, who had bought the property in 1985, lost everything but the restaurant. When they rebuilt, she said, they tried to re-create the charm of the original 19th-century inn and combine it with the amenities 21st-century guests expect. We'd say they succeeded.

Ellen Albanese can be reached at ealbanese@globe.com.