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Bass Harbor and Northeast Harbor, Maine

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July 3, 2005

How to get there

Bass Harbor and Northeast Harbor, Maine, are both about a six-hour drive from Boston. Take Interstate 95 to Bangor and Route 1A to Ellsworth. Pick up Route 3 to Mount Desert, then Route 102 to Bass Harbor. For Northeast Harbor, take Route 198 off Route 102.

SWANS ISLAND

Maine State Ferry Service

Bass Harbor

800-491-4883, 297-244-3254

Car and passenger service six times daily except Wednesdays. Round trip: Adults $12, children $5.25, bicycles $11.50, cars $34.50.

American Eagle

North End Shipyard, Rockland

207-594-8007, 800-648-4544

www.sailmainecoast.com

One of the last classic Gloucester fishing schooners to be launched; restored by current Captain John Foss. Three-, four-, and six-day cruises, accommodating 26 passengers in 14 double cabins, with all meals. From $495 for three days to $855 for the six-day Aug. 1 cruise that includes the Swans Island Music Festival.

FRENCHBORO

Maine State Ferry Service

One round trip Wednesday, Thursday, and Sunday; passengers only on Friday.

Island Cruises

Little Island Marine, Bass Harbor

207-244-5785

www.harborcruises.com

Lunch cruises (3 1/2 hours) to Frenchboro daily, weather permitting. Adults $25, children $15.

LITTLE CRANBERRY ISLAND

Beal & Bunker

Northeast Harbor Town Dock

207-244-3575

The 20-minute trip six times daily. Round trip: Adults $15, children $10.

Cranberry Cove Boating

Upper Town Dock, Southwest Harbor

207-244-5882

Stops at Manset and Great Cranberry six times daily. Adults $20, children $12.

Where to stay

SWANS ISLAND

Swans Island Vacations

207-526-4350

www.swansislandvacations.info

E-mail: maili@prexar.com

Rentals include apartments, cottages, and houses; $500-$1300 per week.

Harbor Watch Motel

207-526-4563, 800-532-7928

On Burnt Coat Harbor, pleasant double rooms $95, units with full kitchen $120; pick up provided from harbor.

Appletree House

49 Scofield Lane

207-526-4438

www.appletreehouse.com

A tastefully furnished, classic 1850s house with two upstairs guest rooms, water views, and a remote feel although not far from the ferry. It can be rented whole or by the room, $80-$100 with breakfast.

Jeannie's Place Bed & Breakfast

Burnt Coat Harbor

207-526-4116

Three homey bedrooms, shared bath. Rooms $45-$55 with full breakfast.

FRENCHBOROKaren and Paul Charpentier, owners of the island's former bed & breakfast, still rent a cottage sleeping two to five for $140 per night. The three-bedroom island parsonage can be rented through Swans Island Vacations (above) for $800 per week.

LITTLE CRANBERRY ISLANDBraided Rugs InnPO Box 15, Islesford

207-244-5943

E-mail: braidedrugsinn@panax.com

Common space includes the big old-fashioned kitchen in which Franny-Jo serves a full breakfast, also dinner on request; guests may also fix their own. From the wraparound porch, you can watch island life go by. Pets are possible, children welcome. Three guest rooms share a big, spanking-clean bathroom. Rooms $80, including breakfast.

Where to eat

Islesford Dock Restaurant

At Islesford Dock, Little Cranberry Island

207-244-7494

www.islesford.com/idr

Dan and Cynthia Lief grow their own herbs and many vegetables and secure seafood and other produce within a boat ride. Crab cakes are a big seller and the menu always includes vegetarian dishes. Full bar. Entrees $14-$17. Lunch 11 a.m.-3 p.m. except Mondays; Sunday brunch 10-2; dinner nightly, 5-9 p.m.

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