Most Maine lobster shacks are breezy, casual shanties where patrons enjoy fresh seafood, boiled or fried, on picnic tables by the water’s edge. But when summer ends, they close. Cook’s Lobster House, on Bailey Island in Harpswell, is one of the few that stays open year-round. To lure customers on cold winter nights, it undergoes a romantic makeover. A wood-burning stove warms the dining room and staff in black-and-white attire offer dramatic tableside service, along with the regular menu and an unusually good wine list. As the moon rises over Casco Bay, you can sample the Caesar salad, made while you watch, a haddock sandwich (the local specialty), and bananas Foster, flambeed with style. Add a nice bottle of wine and the bill will still be less than $100, including tax and tip.

Garrison Cove Road, off Route 24, Bailey Island, Maine, 207-833-2818, cookslobster.com. Tableside service for two: Caesar salad $13.95, chateaubriand $59.95 (call one day ahead), seafood cioppino $52.95, bananas Foster or crème brûlée $13.95.