The current urban renewal has brought hip sidewalk cafes and rooftop restaurants, but the biggest dining draw seems to be Meskerem, a tri-level Ethiopian restaurant. Diners sit on low leather hassocks around a mesab, a basket-like wicker table, for communal eating.

Sheri Farrington of Greenville, S.C. reaches for a taste of shrimp watt, seasoned in a hot and spicy berbere sauce and vegetarian messob, a combo of veggie dishes served with tomato and potato salads.