Where to stay
High-flying travelers will find luxury in Hanoi's French Quarter. Budget travelers can find suitable rooms in the Old Quarter's many guesthouses, some of which charge less than $30 for a night's stay. Options in the Old Quarter include the Thien Thai Hotel (45 Nguyen Truong To), which costs $40 per night for a large room and breakfast , and the Viet Anh Hotel (11 Pho Ma May), which has clean rooms and hot showers for $30 a night.
In the French Quarter are two of Hanoi's premier hotels, the Sofitel Metropole and the Hilton Hanoi Opera. Standard rooms at the Metropole (sofitel.com) cost $250 per night. The Opera (hilton.co.uk/hanoi) is designed in the style of the neighboring Opera House. All rooms offer Internet access and cost as little as $80 a night.
Where to eat
Tamarind Café
80 Ma May
Home of the Handspan travel agency (handspan.com) , which organizes trips to Halong Bay, Tamarind is laid-back with vegan-friendly food. A tofu hotpot, fresh spring rolls, and vegetarian stir-fry took the chill out of a rainy Hanoi night. Dinner for two, including fruit drinks, $10.
Seasons of Hanoi
95B Pho Quan Thanh
Rustic tables, beautifully arranged food, and celadon dinnerware inside a French villa. Dishes include vegetable spring rolls, steamed eggplant in a spiced sauce, and coconut vegetable rice. Dinner for two, including fruit drinks, $25.
Spice Garden
15 Ngo Quyen
This elegant restaurant is in the venerable Metropole Hotel. The menu includes dishes that qualify as street food (though at a much higher price). The restaurant offers three-hour cooking classes on weekdays, except Mondays. Dinner for two, including drinks and tip, $50 .
