On Barbados, ecological wonders offer an exotic alternative to the beach
ST. PETER, Barbados -- ''You see the monkey?" asks the woman working the snack bar. I turn and stare into an empty cage. ''Up, up," she points. I tilt my head back and there, jumping from branch to branch, are five monkeys, wild and loose like most of the animals that call this thick forest of mahogany trees home. So many tortoises mosey about that it's hard not to step on one; deer rest in the shade, and small, funny-looking furballs with rounded ears called agoutis huddle on the brick paths. Thankfully, the massive python is not free to roam. He sleeps peacefully inside a large glass enclosure.
The allure of Barbados has always been the stretch of soft white sand on the west coast that serves as a soft welcome mat for the warm aquamarine waters of the Caribbean Sea. Hotels line the shore north and south of the capital, Bridgetown, appealing to a predominantly British clientele who are content to while away their hours with a book in one hand and some version of the storied local rum in the other. Certainly, nature beckons on this part of the island in the form of hawksbill turtles, stingrays, and the kaleidoscopic array of fish that feed on a very much living reef. But it's the ecological wonders in the northern and eastern sections of the island, namely the Barbados Wildlife Refuge, Andromeda Botanic Gardens, and Harrison's Cave, that differentiate this country from its neighbors.
Since Barbados is relatively small, 24 miles long by 14 miles wide, you can visit all three of these sites in a day. We hired a taxi driver and paid him the equivalent of $150 to take us around. Glimpses of the island's British heritage can be seen in the cricket fields and Colonial-style homes that dot the rolling countryside on the way to the Barbados Wildlife Refuge. Sugar is still the island's main crop, as evidenced by row upon row of cane lining the road. As we meander high up into the hills, the manicured farms are replaced by a dense bush of banana fruit, banyan, the ancient baobab, and mahogany trees -- ideal canopy for animals who want to keep cool in the hot midday sun.
The green monkeys first came to Barbados from West Africa in the mid-17th century as pets of the slave traders. They number around 5,000, spending most of their time in the reserve and adjacent Grenade Hall Forest. Since they are wild, the only time you are guaranteed to see these agile white-faced animals is at feeding time, from 2 to 3 in the afternoon. And there are other creatures worth the trip: Flamingoes and pelicans slurp from shallow ponds, toucans blurt ''hello" from inside an aviary, and the peacocks squawk at the slow-motion red-footed tortoise.
A mother washes her laundry in a mountain spring, her young children looking on, as we make our descent to the east coast of the island. The surging waves of the Atlantic, uninterrupted by land for over 3,000 miles from Africa, pound the rugged shores. There are warnings against swimming in the rough current, but that doesn't stop surfers from hitting the fast flurry of waves. One spot in particular, called the Soup Bowl, plays host to an international surfing contest each August. On the far side of the road, banana ferns and tall palms cling precariously to cliffs, and a thin layer of emerald green film blankets the undeveloped countryside.
''No one builds here," says our driver, Rocky. ''The land is too unstable."
Perched on a hill overlooking the ocean is Andromeda Botanic Gardens. Two short nature trails weave around the man-made pools of water, identifying the tropical flora. There are palm trees of every shape and variety, like the tall talipot palm that can reach heights of 40 feet; a tapestry of woven bark forms the base of the trunk. The massive bearded fig tree could have popped out of a fairy tale, with its long hanging roots cascading from the web of overhanging branches. Then there are the sweet-smelling frangipani, pink hibiscus that are favored by the bluish-green hummingbirds, and an entire orchid tree blooming with purple flowers. Someone wisely planted a bench underneath, rewarding visitors with the best form of aromatherapy.
When we arrived at Harrison's Cave after a quick lunch, there were just as many locals as tourists waiting to view this underground attraction. We hopped on a tram that ambled into the dark corridor of limestone coral. The 100-foot-high Great Hall was teeming with stalagmites and stalactites, the color of a Creamsicle. Even more impressive were the crystal-like formations found in the rotunda that formed a ceiling above pools of rushing water. The deepest point in the cave held the mystical dark blue waters of Cascade Lake. We all stepped off the tram to view a waterfall that pierced the cavern walls and flowed majestically into this small pond.
We spend most of our time in the Caribbean bathing in the gently tossing waves. After a while, all the islands seem to blend together like one big beach vacation. Years from now, it will be the fresh water found inside a Barbados cave that still lingers in my memory.
How to get there
Boston's TNT Vacations offers direct charter flights to Barbados. Flight is four hours. Visit www.tntvacations.com for packages.
What to do
Barbados Wildlife Reserve
Farley Hill, St. Peter
011-246-422-8826
Give yourself an hour to explore. Daily 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Adults $11.50, 12 and under $5.75.
Andromeda Botanic Gardens
Bathsheba, St. Joseph
011-246-433-9261
The bearded fig tree is located on John's Path. Daily 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Adults $6, 6-12 $3.
Contact Newton-based writer Steve Jermanok at farandaway@comcast.net. 