Swimming in a sea of myths
REALITY: The leeward beaches are crowded. In most cases, the body count drops on an islands windward coast, its interior, or its northernmost points. Fall asleep to tree frogs and crashing waves in a rain forest perch like Dominicas Beau Rive. For whole islands of quiet, rent a Loblolly Bay cottage and snorkel Horseshoe Reef on Anegada in the British Virgin Islands, population 200. Feel like one of the family on 5-square-mile Saba where there are no beaches, just spectacular cliff faces and reef diving. Still too crowded? Make the six-hour boat passage to Puerto Ricos Mona Island and pitch your tent in a Galapagos-like setting of utter desertion.