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If you go: Chablis, France

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March 26, 2006

How to get there

Chablis is 122 miles, or a two-hour drive, southeast of Paris. Take the A6 from Paris to Auxerre, then the D965 to Chablis.

Where to stay

Hostellerie des Clos Rue Jules Rathier

011--33-3-86-42-10-63

www.hostellerie-des-clos.fr/

Chablis' finest hotel, its adjoining restaurant has a coveted Michelin star. Elegantly appointed with a charming courtyard. Rooms $51-$150 per night. Meals extra.

Manoir des Roches Sentier Manoir Des Roches

011-33-3-86-18-94-71

www.chablis.net/manoirdesroches

A ''chambres de hôtes" or bed-and-breakfast, the manoir is a wonderful setting on the grounds of a 19th-century mill. Large rooms with French doors overlook the mill race and pastoral fields. A 10-minute walk from the center of town. Rooms are $80, double occupancy; two-room suite is $117. Meals are provided by the host at $31 per person and include an aperitif. The owners are expatriate retired English schoolteachers, but they pride themselves on authentic regional French cooking. A sumptuous breakfast is included in the room rate.

Where to eat

Le Bistrot des Grands Crus 8-10, rue Jules Rathier

011-33-386-42-19-41

The bistro is associated with the Michelin-starred restaurant of the Hostellerie des Clos and includes many of the same menu items, but its prices are somewhat less -- a comparatively inexpensive way to sample the best of north Burgundian cuisine. Dinner for two with wine $61-$92.

La Feuillette

8, rue des Moulins

011-33-386-18-91-67

Heartier, more country cuisine tucked away on the first floor of a house on a tiny side street. Dinner for two $61-$110.

What to do

The region boasts dozens of wineries ranging from small mom-and-pop operations to huge industrial vintners. A wonderful way to end a day's touring is to stop in the late afternoon for a tasting and to pick a wine to have with dinner. Here is a sampling:

Jean-Pierre et Corinne Grossot 4, route de Mont-de-Milieu, Fleys

011-33-386-42-46-64

A small winery, its ''part des anges" at $12 was a particularly good find.

Domain Allain Geoffroy Rue de l'Equerre, Beine

Just west of town this is another small winery. Its petit Chablis is an ideal aperitif.

Jean-Marc Brocard Route de Chablis, Préhy

011-33-386-41-49-00

www.brocard.fr

The Brocard family has built a proud tradition in a small village southwest of town. In addition to tastings, they have winery tours. All of their wines are first rate.

Le Chablisienne Boulevard Pasteur, Chablis

011-33-386-42-89-89

www.chablisienne.com

A cooperative with state-of-the-art facilities, it gets the best grapes from the small holders and produces top wines.

Information

Tourist office

1 Quai Biez

011-33-386-42-80-80

E-mail: ot-chablis@chablis.net

www.chablis.net.

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