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If you go: Croatia

Email|Print| Text size + By Drake Bennett, Globe Staff and Rebecca Ulam Weiner, Globe Correspondent
Globe Staff / August 20, 2006

Where to stay

Accomodations in Croatia range from brutalist bunkers to small, stuccoed pensions. There are some higher-end , larger establishments, too, often with a ramshackle charm.

Nautic Apartments

Kut

011-385-21-717-020

nautic-apartments.com

While there are a few hotels on Vis, one of the best options is Nautic Apartments (particularly useful for larger groups). The four apartments are clean, spacious, and well appointed, if basic. The shared terrace provides a panoramic view. The owner, Drazen, is a font of information about the island. Summer rates $84.

Hotel Tamaris

Obala sv. Jurja 20, Vis Town

011-385-21-711-350

Conveniently located a few hundred yards from the ferry and overlooking the bay, the hotel has the look of a relic from the Austro-Hungarian Empire and is pleasant in a lazy, run-down sort of way. Some rooms are far more comfortable than others. Ask for a renovated room with views overlooking the water. Summer rates $50.

Where to eat

Vis is famous for its seafood, and the island's restaurants showcase it. Grilled fish and shellfish predominate -- keep in mind, when ordering fish, that the price is often listed per kilogram.

Parallelo 43 Bistrot

Obala Kraja Kresimira IV 13, Kut

011-385-21-711-481

www.parallelo43.com

Opened last summer, the restaurant has a bit of a designer feel and serves terrific grilled fish, vegetables, and meats as well as homemade pastas. The tables are spread under a bamboo canopy with a view across the bay. Entrees about $15.

Restoran Villa Kaliopa

Vladimira Nazora 32, Kut

011-385-21-711-755

www.tz-vis.hr/hr/desno/tekst_restoran_kaliopa.htm

With a few tables romantically scattered around a palm-shaded sculpture garden, Kaliopa has the most unusual atmosphere of Vis's restaurants, as well as the best wine list. Entrees about $15.

What to do

Ionios Tourist Agency Obala sv. Jurja 37, Vis Town

011-385-21-711-532

E-mail: ionios@st.htnet.hr

Barely 100 yards from the ferry terminal, Ionios rents scooters, cars, and bicycles and can organize fishing trips, charter boats, and other excursions.

Bisevo This speck of an island off Vis has one of Dalmatia's best-known tourist attractions, the Blue Cave. When the tide is right, boats enter this flooded cavern. Due to its structure, it's lighted from beneath by water-filtered sunlight, which casts everything in a blue glow.

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