Europe lodging tip: convents
ROME - Do you think the cost of a European vacation is out of reach? While rising fuel costs, airline surcharges, and the faltering economy may leave you feeling defeated, some tourists are turning to divine intervention.
Convents, monasteries, and religious guesthouses have been opening their doors to tourists for years. Not only are they a unique alternative, but they can also slash nearly 50 percent off your lodging bill.
I recently was searching for rooms under $300 in Rome when I remembered my brother's story of his convent stay in Spain. He returned with a picture of a tiny, white-haired nun with a wide smile. I envisioned remote cottages with nuns quietly gliding from room to room where guests whispered among themselves. It seemed intriguing, and more importantly, perhaps a good deal.
Eager to keep our budget in check, my husband and I booked a convent room at Istituto Santa Giuliana Falconieri in the city center. I exchanged e-mails with a friendly nun named Sister Kathryn. She had made her way from Chicago to Italy and had been at the convent for nearly a decade.
When we arrived, we were shown to a tidy, modest room. We had to push the twin beds together every night. There was also a small desk, a wardrobe, and a crucifix on the wall. There was no television, radio, or air conditioning. All the rooms with private bathrooms had been booked, but the common bathroom was just steps away. We did have our own sink and bidet.
Despite its relative austerity, we were comfortable and content in our room, but disappointed to learn the nuns ran the quarters like, well, a hotel. They spent each day praying, holding service, and doing community work without fanfare. Soon they just seemed like typical hotel staff, only with more interesting uniforms.
But our experience wasn't entirely without color. The 80-year-old woman we affectionately called "the breakfast nun" spent her mornings shouting at guests about the proper way to order croissants and cappuccino. The other nuns were charming and had a whimsical air of entrepreneurs accustomed to managing guests. They rewarded us with smiles and encouragement whenever we attempted to speak Italian.
If you're looking for luxury or all-night partying, you won't find it at Istituto Santa Giuliana Falconieri, whose nightly rate starts at about half that of most area hotels. The convent curfew is midnight. Unfortunately, you may still be subjected to all-night partying, as we were, if your room faces the street, which is near Piazza Navona and the Pantheon.
Next we stayed at a former monastery and orphanage in Venice called Centro Culturale Don Orione Artigianelli. We took the Alilaguna boat from the Venice Marco Polo Airport and hopped off about an hour later at the Zattere waterbus stop. From there the monastery was just down the road near the Gallerie dell'Accademia. We were pleased to find our lodging was about a 10- to 20-minute walk to restaurants and popular attractions including the bustling Piazza San Marco.
Don Orione appeared newly renovated and was meticulously clean. The same familiar crucifix hung above our twin beds that we again pushed together each evening. The enormous room with courtyard views was peaceful and quiet without television or radio.
The building itself was so large it felt empty. Long hallways were decorated with religious statues and paintings, and there were antique printing presses once used by the friars, giving us the sense we were sightseeing without leaving our lodging.
Our 1:30 a.m. curfew left plenty of time for a leisurely return after a night on the town. Our only complaint was the lack of an alarm clock. We ultimately awakened for our 6 a.m. flight through sheer panic and dread of missing it.
Don Orione was a bargain at $209-$216 for double occupancy with a private bathroom and light breakfast.
Some convents allow only women and children to stay, so check the rules before booking, or visit santasusanna.org for a list of convents and religious guesthouses.
Susan Finch can be reached at finchnyc@yahoo.com. 