Reap some of the rewards, without the Nobel nod
STOCKHOLM - So you aren't among the winners of the Nobel Prize, and you haven't been invited to the banquet on Dec. 10. You could head here anyway and enjoy your own version of a Nobel reception. The city makes it easy.
In the capital of a nation that prides itself on equality and shuns elitism, much of what is given to Nobel Prize recipients is available to anyone. Sure you'll have to pay for it, but enjoying a small taste of the Nobel life makes for a rewarding day.
Just like the Nobelists do, start your tour at the Nobel Museum, which stands regally amid bustling cafes in Stortorget, the main square of the lively old town, Gamla Stan. At an introductory reception that kicks off the week of festivities, prize recipients browse through the exhibits and begin the process of taking their place in history by signing an official ledger.
Take in the display stands, which are arranged by decade and offer historic perspective on the ideas and inventions that have caught the attention of the prize committees. The poster boards on the overhead cableway show honorees.
Before you exit, watch the short films playing in the two theaters - one focusing on how the environment influences the creative process, the other documenting the laureates' achievements. At the Listen & Learn station, hear what makes a memorable Nobel Prize lecture.
You won't want to rush out of Gamla Stan. Its narrow, cobbled streets are worth exploring. At Brända Tomten, a square that is really more of a triangle, enjoy some quiet repose under a sprawling chestnut tree. Then head to Kungsholmen, another of the 14 islands that make up Stockholm.
Head toward the Stadshuset, or City Hall, which sits at the tip of Kungsholmen and is identifiable by its dark red brick. Its prominent tower is topped with the three crowns that are the national emblem. The business of Stockholm is carried out here, but each Dec. 10 - the anniversary of the death of Alfred Nobel (1833-96), who originated the prize in his will - the Stadshuset rolls out the red carpet for a banquet for the laureates.
Tours are offered regularly, starting in Blue Hall, which is made entirely of red brick. Apparently, the brick was to have been tiled over in Swedish blue, but architect Ragnar Östberg decided he liked it as it was. The name stuck. This is where the Nobel dinner occurs.
Note the long, narrow Princess Hall, resplendent with large windows that look out onto the water and chandeliers that reflect in gleaming mirrors. This is where a private reception for the honorees takes place. In the Gold Hall gold mosaics stretch from floor to ceiling.
At the end of the tour, head down to Stadshuskällaren, the restaurant in the lower level of the Stadshuset, but don't expect to eat like an award winner. Each year, three chefs are chosen to compete for the right to serve their menu to the 1,300 guests who gather for the dinner, with the Nobel Foundation choosing the winning menu after a tasting. Last year, the menu, which is kept secret until the day of the event, consisted of lobster aspic with dill-baked halibut and Kalix bleak roe, young cockerel with cockerel sausage, almond potato and celery root terrine, and raspberry and black currant parfait on beds of pistachio with vanilla ice cream.
After you've eaten, cross over another of Stockholm's 57 bridges to reach neighboring Norrmalm, and stroll to NK, the most prominent department store in the city. You could easily lose yourself in the five floors of top-market Swedish goods, but on this trip you'll want to go directly to the bottom level, where you can purchase a place setting identical to that used at the Nobel banquet. Redesigned in 1991 for the 90th anniversary of the Nobel Prize, the place setting features pieces by the finest designers in Sweden: cutlery by Gense, bone china by Rörstand, linens by Klässbol, and glassware by Orrefors. If an entire setting doesn't interest you, then pick up one of the champagne glasses.
As the sun sets on your Nobel day, cross back over Kungsholmen and continue across to the tiny island of Lilla Essingen, where you'll find Lux Dessert Och Choklad. Confectioner Ted Johansson has crafted dessert menus for the Nobel banquet, and his treats live up to the luxury implied by the pâtisserie's name.
Theresa Dowell Blackinton can be reached at tblackinton@gmail.com. 