Scenes, streets, smarts make London affordable
 The open-air Berwick Street Market in London's Soho sells primarily produce but also other items from fish to flowers. (Kathy Shorr for The Boston Globe) |
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LONDON - Everybody warns you about London, land of the $2 doughnut and $30 "moderate" lunches. A friend who banked his first million years ago says, "Oh, we can't afford to go there anymore."
Still, I was game. When I lived in London nearly 30 years ago the dollar was worth even less. I was usually broke, but I always had plenty to eat and do.
In some ways I had it made this trip. My husband was going for work, so some of his expenses were covered. But I had to pay my own way, including nearly $1,000 for airfare, so I was eager to do it on the cheap.
Once we landed, we got Oyster cards for buses and the Tube, London's subway system. The Oyster is London's version of the Charlie Card but an even better deal. It reduces Tube fares from $6 to $2.20, and a bus ride to about $1.30, which includes the added bonus of sightseeing from the top of a double-decker.
Since so much to do in London is free, the key to saving money is reasonable accommodations. Renting an apartment was less than a comparable hotel room. We spent our last night at the London Central hostel in Bloomsbury. It offers bargain dorm-style rooms with shared baths, but we had a private room and bath, albeit with bunk beds, and access to a kitchen and laundry. The reception area doubles as a large, airy cafe, both open 24/7, with Wi-Fi and large-screen TVs.
In the same Gower Street neighborhood, many of the brick townhouses are reasonably priced small hotels and B&Bs, including the Arran House Hotel, where the back door opens onto a beautiful private garden and patio.
London Bed & Breakfast Agency will book you a room in someone's house, which is especially good if you want an insider's approach to the city. For a more conventional affordable hotel, try the three-star Jurys Inn's Islington or Chelsea locations.
Dining out can be a budget breaker anywhere, but we found plenty of fine restaurants within our means. Terra has an unassuming storefront and a Mediterranean menu. I've never had such perfectly prepared risotto, and I'm still thinking about the chargrilled baby squid.
Seemingly expensive places may be affordable, like the North African Souk Medina near Covent Garden. The low ottomans, Arabic music, and tented ceiling of billowing red and purple fabric make you feel you have wandered into a casbah. The $30 "feast" sounds pricey. But its plentiful portions, including four starters, six entrees, and dessert, could feed three or four. We had leftovers for lunch for two days.
As for shopping, give me Portobello Road and the other street markets for clothing, antiques, crafts, and more - not to mention people-watching. You know you're not in the United States anymore when the clothes include real Victorian blouses, complete with stays.
You'll find thrift shops whose proceeds go to charity. The Oxfam shop on Kensington
It's worth buying Time Out magazine for the comprehensive weekly listing of free and inexpensive happenings. We went to the magnificent St. Martin-in-the-Fields church for its lunchtime music series, where a piano trio played to a full house for donations. And for the cost of two pints, we saw the excellent British jazz singer Georgia Mancio at the Scottish pub Boisdale of Bishopsgate, which often hosts well-known acts for early evening sets with no cover charge.
The city's greatest pastimes still don't cost a penny. We sat on the steps of the National Gallery and National Portrait Gallery (free admission to both), watching the action in Trafalgar Square. We walked over to Parliament, then down to Waterloo Bridge and the Thames.
And we spent every fair-weather moment we could in the parks. The trees may be taller than years ago when I walked through Kensington Park, but the green-and-white sling chairs still welcome you to relax and the bronze fairies still gaze up at the statue of Peter Pan.
Kathy Shorr can be reached at kshorr@mail2.gis.net.
