Food without rules, under the Utah sky
SPRINGDALE, Utah - On the road, when in doubt ask a local where to eat. That's my mantra, one that has rarely steered me wrong.
It worked yet again on a visit to Zion National Park in Utah. Jeff Richards, a hiking and canyoneering guide with Zion Rock and Mountain Guides, told us not to miss a meal at the 40-seat Whiptail Grill, situated here at the south entrance of the park.
Opened in 2007 by chef John Hathaway and his wife (and prep cook), Jaydi, the place doesn't look like much from the outside. It used to be a gas station, and bathrooms are still around the side of the building. But under a crystal blue sky, against the backdrop of Zion's famous white and pink rock formations, Hathaway's food soars. His menu is inventive, fresh, interesting - spaghetti squash and goat cheese enchiladas, grilled crusted ahi tuna, an amazing grape and gorgonzola baby greens salad, presented in the shape of a cluster of grapes. And good wine and beer options.
Hathaway, who worked at two four-star joints in Park City (Chimayo Restaurant, Grappa Italian Cafe) before he moved to the Springdale area, is self-taught, with influences that range from Southwestern to Thai and Italian. If you want a true taste of Hathaway's no-rules style, have the chocolate peanut butter habanera crème brûlée for dessert. Sounds nutty, but like the rest of his cooking, it's just delicious.
Whiptail Grill, 445 Zion Park Blvd., Springdale, Utah, 435-772-0283.
BETH D'ADDONO 