Beyond the Glam in South Beach

MIAMI -- South Beach has been a hot and hyped destination for more than a decade, and sometimes it's hard to separate the glam from the good. I've spent the past 10 winters in South Beach, from four to six months at a time, and over the years I've compiled an unofficial ''Best of South Beach" list for guests. The premise is it's easy to find the high-profile, newest, hottest, glitziest places, but harder to find where the locals like to go. So here, in addition to my favorite restaurants, are some helpful tips about the neighborhood, the beach, and other things the usual tourist might miss. Welcome to my other hometown.

Numbered streets run east-west, between the ocean and the bay. Named streets run north-south. The exceptions are Espanola Way, which pops up between 14th and 15th, and Lincoln Road, between 16th and 17th. Espanola Way is pedestrian-only between Washington and Drexel avenues on weekends. Lincoln Road is a pedestrian walkway with shops, restaurants, and the Art Center South Florida. (You can wander in and out of artist studios most days and weekend evenings.) Both Espanola and Lincoln host street fairs or farmers' markets on Sundays. Ocean Drive is the big tourist spot that you see in movies and on TV. Many of the restaurants are mediocre and overpriced, but it's fun to wander and people-watch. Washington Avenue is the most fun and funky combination of old and new, with small high-end shops, Latin juice bars, shoe repair places, and a great thrift store. Collins Avenue has mainly hotels and residences, though the southern end is becoming overrun with (yawn) chain stores. The entire district has terrific Art Deco architecture, though.

In no particular order (many places add a 15 percent gratuity to the bill; look before tipping twice):

La Locanda

413 Washington Ave.

305-538-6277

This small gem is where local folks go for terrific Italian food with a low-key, friendly vibe. Don't miss the Penne dell'Appennino, an aphrodisiac mix of wild mushrooms with a touch of truffle oil. The charming man with the hundred-watt smile darting between the tables is the owner, Francesco Cavaletti. Entrees $9-$23.

Nemo

100 Collins Ave.

305-532-4550

www.nemorestaurant.com

A top-of-the-list expensive place. Get the citrus-cured salmon rolls with wasabi mayonnaise or the sea bass on ginger-laced spinach. Entrees $25-$39.

Miss Yip Chinese Cafe

1661 Meridian Ave.

305-534-5488

www.missyipchinesecafe.com

A great noodle and martini joint. Order the Singapore-curry noodles named Miss Yip (with shrimp, pork, egg, and vegetables) with a lychee martini and slip into bliss. Entrees $11-$17.

Lincoln Road Cafe

941 Lincoln Road at Michigan Avenue

305-538-8066

The best place for good inexpensive Cuban food on the beach. Excellent for breakfast, also open for lunch and dinner. Definitely eat outside. Try eggs with ham, Cuban toast, and cafe con leche, or a real pressed Cuban sandwich that is unlike anything you'll find in Boston. Breakfast $4-$6.

A La Folie Cafe

516 Espanola Way (between Drexel and Pennsylvania)

305-538-4484

My favorite casual hangout, day or night. Thirty varieties of crepes (savory and sweet) as well as sandwiches, salads, wine, and the best iced coffee (made with espresso). Very French, very bohemian -- thus the service is slow, but so what. Entrees $5-$10.

Sushi Rock

1351 Collins Ave.

305-532-2133

Sit at the bar. Get the spider roll. Entrees $11-$24.

Rosinella

525 Lincoln Road (near Pennsylvania)

305-672-8777

Stop here for inexpensive, authentic Italian food with recipes by Mama Rosinella. Try the grilled calamari on mixed greens or the daily ravioli special. Also excellent wood-fired thin-crust pizzas. Eat outside and watch the crowds, or, when the temperatures drop below, say, 70 degrees, eat inside. Entrees $8-$16.

The Front Porch Cafe

1418 Ocean Drive

305-531-8300

Locals and tourists line up for huge breakfasts: omelets, breakfast burritos, fresh fruit. Also a great spot for drinks and people-watching in late afternoon. Breakfast $6.25-$8.50.

Pizza Rustica

863 Washington Ave.

305-674-8244

I don't even like pizza much, but I drool over thoughts of their large slices with a multitude of toppings. Perfect for après-beach or après-nightclub. (They close at 7 a.m.) Other locations at 667 Lincoln Road and 1447 Washington Ave. Slices $4.

Pita Plus

1049 Washington Ave.

305-695-9222

Make sure you're at this Israeli-owned pita place and no other. Amazing falafel, hummus, kabobs, and shawarma, all fresh and homemade. They even grill the bread. A funky patio out back, or sit at tables on Washington Avenue. Sandwiches $5-$15.

Taste Bakery

900 Alton Road

305-695-9930

Diet-tempting pastries, bagels (Asiago cheese!), smoothies, salads, wraps, coffee, and chai latte. Hormone and pesticide-free. Bring your laptop for the free Wi-Fi. Wraps and sandwiches $4-$6.

Tap Tap

819 Fifth St.

305-672-2898

Colorful Haitian restaurant. Perfect if you're in the mood for stewed goat or whole steamed fish with lime sauce. Try a side dish of spinach and coconut milk. If you're lucky, there will be some live music. Entrees $6-$14.

Since I have an apartment, I don't stay in hotels, and instead rely on reports from visiting friends. (My house rule: You can spend three nights on my couch.) Generally speaking, I'd stay off Ocean Drive if you don't like late-night rowdiness and noise.

On a budget

Best Western South Beach

1050 Washington Ave.

888-343-1930

www.bestwestern.com

Doubles $95.

The Kent Hotel

1131 Collins Ave.

305-604-5068

www.thekenthotel.com

Doubles $89.

Beachcomber Hotel

1340 Collins Ave.

888-305-4683

Doubles $119.

Not on a budget

Delano Hotel

1685 Collins Ave.

305-672-2000, 800-606-6090

www.delano-hotel.com

Doubles $450.

The Raleigh Hotel

1775 Collins Ave.

305-534-6300

www.raleighhotel.com

Doubles $325.

Hotel Nash

1120 Collins Ave.

305-674-7800

www.hotelnash.com

Doubles $179.

Lee-Ann Pharmacy

955 Washington Ave.

A good place to get essentials like a few basic groceries, plus the newspaper, flip-flops, postcards, and nail polish. The small wiry guy watching the door is the owner, Fast Eddie.

Books & Books

933 Lincoln Road

Our local bookstore. Pretty good for its size, with a small cafe. The Miami New Times

This free weekly newspaper has listings for things to do and see and is in red metal boxes on many street corners.

Fernandez Fruit Market

1407 Washington Ave.

A slightly disheveled supermarket, but you can order fresh fruit drinks (including watermelon, papaya, blueberry, apple, carrot, orange) or smoothies for two to three bucks. Ask for extra ice if you want it cold, as they generally use only a few cubes.

Publix

1920 West Ave.

This is the coolest Publix in the world, designed by architect Carlos Zapata and shaped like a futuristic cruise ship.

Delano Hotel

(See above)

A little glam is sometimes necessary. Check out this hotel with interior designed by Phillippe Stark. Wander through the lobby, out to the back and see the pool. Splurge for lunch on the patio or hang with the too-cool crowd at night at the bar.

Hotel Astor

956 Washington

A great place to have a drink at the bar off the lobby. Sit outside or in and watch the green-lighted waterfall wall next to the pool.

Raleigh Hotel

(See above)

The interior bar is a classic but it's magical to sit out near the pool at night beneath the palms and stars. You'll pay dearly for the lush life, but you only live once. (My last martini cost $18 with tip. Though with 10 ounces of alcohol, according to the bartender, it was like having two.)

Wolfsonian Museum

1001 Washington Ave.

305-531-1001

A museum of art and design objects from 1885-1945, housed in a former fur storage building. Admission $7.

Post Office

1300 Washington Ave.

Cool Works Progress Administration-era building with murals in the lobby.

Beaches

This is a great urban beach, with a hard-packed surface for running and biking, areas with volleyball nets, and a funky array of decoratively painted lifeguard shacks. Rent chairs and umbrellas all along the beach. From 12th to 13th street is predominantly a gay area. Third Street used to be a more local and Euro crowd, but with new hotels along the strip, you'll find tourists there as well. This is a city beach, so leave your wallet and valuables at the hotel. Women can go topless anywhere.

Warning

Never step on any grass, in a park, along the beach, and especially the small strips between the curb and the sidewalk, as people here rarely curb their dogs.

Contact Necee Regis, a freelance writer in Boston and Miami Beach, at neceeregis@yahoo.com.