The skinny on Thom Browne

On paper, it looks like the oddest pairing since Felix Unger moved his broom and air freshener into Oscar Madison's digs. But the partnering of designer Thom Browne with retail institution Brooks Brothers will allow both parties to expand their customer base when Browne's new line, called Black Fleece, goes on sale next month. The clothes are more expensive than the usual Brooks Brothers offerings (suits will sell for $2,700), and the styles more adventurous. A very busy Browne took time to answer questions about the collaboration via e-mail this week.

Q What did you think when you were first approached by Brooks Brothers for a collaboration?

A It was a dream come true, since I've always associated Brooks Brothers as an iconic American brand. Also, I wore Brooks Brothers, my father and my grandfather wore Brooks Brothers, so I thought that this would be a great fit. The collaboration began with [Vogue editor] Anna Wintour asking me if I were ever to collaborate with a company, who would it be. So she was kind enough to make the introduction.

Q The inseam, arm length, and cut of your suits is an important part of your design. Was there a particular historical time or fashion icon that inspired the look?

A It's not a literal historical reference. I've always been drawn to the American style in the late '50s and '60s. It's more about the spirit of this time that I am drawn to, as this was the time when there was a distinct American sensibility. My silhouette is not exactly the same as this period, but it's been changed to suit what I think is appealing and different.

Q What inspired the line for Brooks Brothers? Who did you imagine wearing the clothes?

A Since Brooks Brothers is a 189-year-old company, there are plenty of references and inspirations I can draw from their archives and catalogs. The wearer of Black Fleece may not be all that different from mine, in that I imagine that it would be someone who is a true individual, and independent thinker. This is for both men and women.

Q When designing the collection, did you take into account that these were clothes that would be sold by a store that provides clothes to businessmen and -women, or did you approach the collection as you would one of your own?

A Both my own collection, and Black Fleece start from the same classical point of view. However, I'm very conscious of making sure that Black Fleece is true to Brooks Brothers, that it is a brand under the umbrella of Brooks Brothers. For my own collection, I am only responsible to myself.

Q If there was one thing you could change about the way that American men dress, what would it be?

A While I think men in general should not fuss over how they look, I do feel as though they should make more an effort to find a way to look good in their own individual, but natural way. I think it's a shame that it's become acceptable to wear jeans and a T-shirt to any place and function. I always say that what I am doing has become the antiestablishment, because the jeans and T-shirt look has become so acceptable and part of the establishment.