Around the time that pork producers began raising meat that was lower in fat
but still tender, Americans decided to turn the fire off before the meat went
gray. Gray pork was such standard fare in this country that it was actually
surprising to be served meat with a slight rosiness, with juices oozing. The
overcooking was an old habit born from a fear of trichinosis, caused by a
microscopic parasite sometimes found in pork. Earlier this century, home
economists urged consumers to keep pork in the oven until the meat thermometer
read 185 degrees, to prevent trichinosis. Today, we know 160 degrees is a safe
temperature for pork. That new standard, which leaves the meat rosy, has
transformed pork, allowing once-ordinary chops to sit pridefully on the plate.
The best chops are thick, of course, because even juicy meat will dry out
more quickly if it's thinly cut. Thick pork chops should be cooked the way
some restaurants do: over high heat in a skillet just until the meat browns
and the thin strip of fat along the edge caramelizes. You can make a sauce
right in the skillet, scraping the browned bits so they flavor the dish, then
transfer the pan to a hot oven to finish cooking. The meat should be moist and
rosy, crisp along the edge and really wonderful inside where the pork and bone
once met. (Recipes follow.)
