Steam-cleaning could stain your wood floors

Q. Four years ago we had our wood floors finished with polyurethane. What do you think about a steam mop to clean them? I'm afraid the steam will penetrate the finish and darken the wood. What's a good way to clean wood floors? M.P., e-mail

A. If the mop produces real steam, it could cause black water marks or white stains. So, avoid steam and excess water.

To clean finished floors, you can use detergent and water, with the sponge squeezed out well. Or paint thinner will do well. It will dull the finish, but you can buff the floor to a shine with a dry cloth.

I have had good luck using a wet Swiffer on my finished floors. Some people have complained that Swiffer leaves a film, but I have seen none on my floors.

Q. I just bought a new pedestal sink and in the installation it got scratched when it was placed upside down on a screwdriver. One scratch looks like a hair and is very noticeable. Can the scratches be removed or is there a product to hide them? SICK OF SCRATCHES

A. If the sink was installed by anyone but you, he or they owe you a new sink. You cannot remove the scratches but you can disguise them by painting with an appliance touch-up paint. That is, if the sink is white.

Q. I am taking out all my window sashes in order to paint them properly. I can take the bottom sash out of each window by removing the side stops and prying off the weatherstripping, but I can't release the parting bead, the little vertical strip of wood in a groove in the jamb that keeps the two sashes properly apart. Is there a secret to taking out that parting bead? FRANK SHEA, Marblehead

A. No secret; you have to play it by ear as you go along. The parting bead is inserted in its groove without nailing, so it should come out easily when you pull it. Remove the top stop (the wide board that keeps the top sash in place, which will reveal the full length of the parting bead). As you pull it out, make sure it clears the bottom edge of the top sash.

Q. I am building a covered porch that will be 16 by 27 feet. I plan to put in Sonatubes (concrete posts) 3 feet into the ground, but a man said to put concrete blocks 1 foot into the ground and use lolly columns instead. What is best? ELAINE SFERRAZZA, Canton

A. Those blocks will rise and fall with freezing and thawing, and could throw the porch out of position. The Sonatubes are the way to go, at least 3 feet, possibly 4 feet, into the ground, below the frost line.

Q. I have 2-inch-deep depressions in my driveway that are not more than a few inches in diameter. They form puddles, and I am afraid water will get into the foundation. Can I put a thin layer of Cold Patch on to level out those depressions? M.A., Brookline

A. No, a thin layer will not stick. So, try this: Cut out the depressions the thickness of the driveway and fill the holes with Cold Patch, a Sakrete product sold in hardware and lumber stores. Fill about halfway and tamp thoroughly with a heavy 2 -by- 4 or other board. Then fill the hole to overflowing with Cold Patch, put a piece of plywood over it, and drive over it with your car. If you can't get your car that close, keep tamping with the 2 -by- 4.

Use a wide cold chisel and heavy hammer to cut the asphalt; it is hard work, so you must persevere.

Q. My central a/c makes a terrible screeching sound when the compressor kicks in. It lasts for two minutes or so, then is intermittent. Part of the unit was replaced but the screech continues. The a/c man blames the contractor and the contractor blames the a/c man and so it goes. Now what? VINCE PARZIALE, Salem

A. Your only choice is to get after one or the other, or both. If given enough threats, or if you can withhold money, they will get off their dusties and move. If any amount of cajoling or threatening does not work, have your lawyer write them a nice, polite, soft-spoken letter; that's an offer they can't refuse.

Q. I have a fairly decent, nicely finished piece of furniture that was taped up with that popular buff-colored packing tape. It really holds, and I got most of the tape off, but some remains and so does the adhesive. How can I get it off without messing up the finish? DAVE McKEON, Boston

A. Adhesives and tapes have become wonderfully strong but solvents for the adhesive have not kept pace, partly because one solvent is needed for each specific adhesive.

So, here is a litany of solvents to try; when you hit the right one, write it down. All of the following solvents are from the Handyman's handy-dandy electronic file. Try each one on an obscure area of the furniture to make sure it does not mess it up. All are sold in most hardware stores:

Goo-Gone, Citrus Green, Citrus Clean, oil, WD40, oily susbtance of any kind, rubber cement thinner, dry cleaning fluid, charcoal lighter fluid, rubbing alcohol.

De-Solv-It, Klean-Strip Adhesive Remover, Goof-Off, Oops, Turtle Wax Bug & Tar Remover, pre-laundry spray (leave on for 15 minutes before wiping).

Waterless hand soap (mechanic's soap) may help.

I think your best chance is to use oil -- any kind of oil including cooking oil. Let the oil soak on the adhesive for an hour to soften it, and rub until it's gone. Wash off oil with detergent and a little water.

Some of these solvents are likely to dull the finish; the shine can be restored by buffing with a dry cloth or buffing bonnet.

Q. Are the ultrasonic pest repellents effective in getting rid of bugs? I have ants and spiders that I would like to be free of. RUTH HORGAN, Norwell

A. It has been found that the ultrasonic devices do a fair job in keeping out bugs and other vermin, but not necessarily in eradicating an established infestation.

But take it easy with the spiders. If you had no spiders, you would have a lot more bugs. This advice is mainly for people who live in moderate and northern climes. In places where the black widow and brown recluse thrive, it is important to go after them.

As for the ants, sweep them up and throw them away. Avoid using insecticides indoors. You can put down ant cups, which might help deter them. Keep those ant cups away from pets and humans.

And here is what T. Tavares of Falmouth e-mailed: This has proved to eliminate an ant problem in our sunroom. It has been recommended constantly by Paul Parent on his Sunday a.m. garden program: Mix equal parts of 20 Mule Team Borax (from the grocery store) and granulated white sugar. Sprinkle along areas in the house where ants seem to be entering as often as needed. This has worked successfully for us both indoors and out. Good luck!

Thanks T. Tavares, and thanks Paul Parent, a longtime friend who has been around as long as the Handyman.

One thing about borax and a related material, boric acid: They have a certain toxicity and should be kept away from pets and humans.

And, there is a professional product on the market similar to Paul's formula. Terro, maker of many ant products, makes a liquid ant bait that contains sugar and borax, and claims it is one of the safest and most effective ant-control agents on the market.

Handyman on Call Peter Hotton is available from 1 to 6 p.m. Tuesdays to answer questions on house repair. Call in your questions to 617-929-2930. Hotton also chats online about house matters from 2 to 3 p.m. Thursdays. To participate, go to Boston.com. Hotton's e-mail is photton@globe.com.