New Zealand's crisp sauvignon blanc
Most of the world's great wine regions have been growing grapes and producing wines for hundreds of years. Burgundian monks were responsible for saving the viticultural traditions during the Dark Ages. In the 18th century, Thomas Jefferson was already extolling the virtues of the wines from Bordeaux. Even in the New World, the California wine industry started in the mid-19th century. So it is a little surprising that the Marlborough region of New Zealand, now world renowned for sauvignon blanc, was pastureland only 25 years ago.
In 1979, Montana Wines, which sells its wines under the Brancott Vineyards label in this country, was the first to make sauvignon blanc in Marlborough, a region at the northern tip of New Zealand's South Island. Since then, Marlborough's pastureland has been turned into vineyards at an extraordinary rate, a four-fold increase in just the past 10 years, according to data provided by David Strada, the US representative for New Zealand Winegrowers, a trade association.
Marlborough winemakers attribute the unique character of their sauvignon blanc to the area's extraordinary amount of sunshine, coupled with a cool climate that allows the grapes to ripen slowly, developing more flavors while preserving their acidity. The hallmark of Marlborough sauvignon blanc is citric and mineral flavors balanced by crisp, penetrating acidity. They have an appealing, almost electrifying zing.
Massachusetts has a wide and excellent selection of Marlborough sauvignon blanc, no doubt because these wines go so well with our seafood. Six of my favorites from the outstanding 2004 vintage are Tohu (about $15), Nautilus (about $16), Spy Valley (about $17), Selaks (about $15), Thornbury (about $20), and Nobilo (about $11).
Tohu and Thornbury are distributed by Ruby Wines, 508-588-7007; Nautilus by Martignetti Cos., 800-872-9463 and MS Walker, 800-238-0607; Spy Valley Atlantic by Importing Co., 508-229-0014; Selaks by Horizon Beverage Co., 800-696-2337; and Nobilo by MS Walker.
