Handyman On Call chat with Peter Hotton
houseaboutit: We recently had new hot water radiators installed - and painted. A couple of them are already have a line of rust forming over the paint job, around one of the bolts or screws. Seems obvious that at least a tiny bit of water is getting out. Should we just try to tighten the screws a little? Should we call the plumber who installed them?
Peter_Hotton: houseaboutit: You could have the plumbe come back and tighten everything, but I don't think that is the problem. You either painted over rust or a bit of condensation occurred on the joints and penetrated the paint causing the rust. The cure is to sand the radiators to remvoe every trace of rust, then prime with an oil prmer and finish with an oil based paint. If you cannot get all the rust off, treat it with Rust Reformer, which will turn the rust black and make it paintable. Then reprimer and repaint.
fox_hill: We recently purchased a two family. The sound barrier between the floors is not ideal. I don't think the original owners put any insulation in between the two units just the exterior walls. I would like to add insulation between the joists in all of the ceilings on the first floor at some point. Will I need to tear all the plaster ceilings down? Could it be blown in? Also, are there any issues with using an R19 vs R30? Will there be any issues with air flow and moisture once I add the insulation that I should think about? Do you have any other recommendations?
Peter_Hotton: Fox_Hill: I forgot to log in so here goes: welcomel, denizens of the Hotton Zoo. Today's critter is what: At the beginning why not aardvarck? T0 Fox, if the biggest problem with the sound transmission is impact noise (shoes clumping on the floor above), the only cure is to have people on the second floor put down a pad and carpeting, and to walk in their socks, not shoes. For any other sound, lower the ceiling so that is suspended on joists completely seperate from the ceilign above.
Peter_Hotton: Fill the space by blowing in cellulose, and then put 6-inch unbacked fiberglass behind the suspended ceiling
houseaboutit: On new electrical work we had done, the dimmer switch plate that controls about half a dozen recessed lights in our kitchen ceiling gets warm when the lights are on. Our contractor says the switch is to code for the load of lights we have, but somehow the fact that switch plate is quite obviously warm to the touch has me questioning whether this is true. Whadayathink?
Peter_Hotton: house; iF THE SWITCH IS to code and is warm, not hot to the touch, or too hot to place yur hand onk then it is probably normal. You caN Also have anaother electrician check it to confirm the contractor's opinion or unconfrm it.
red: Peter, I am trying to replace my bathtub drain. I bought the universal drain wrench (dumbell wrench) but the drain will not loosen as hard as I try. Is there any way to remove this drain?
Peter_Hotton: NATE: Spray a littleWD-40 on the drain to see if that will loosen it. If not luck, have a plumber do it.
123: Hi Petter, what's the approx cost to install storm windows?
Peter_Hotton: 123: You can buy True Channel storms (the best on the market) for about $150 each. Installation is anOTHER $50 AND UP PER WINDOW. You cn buy them through a independent lumber co. (they are made by Harvey ande install them yourself.
bzb: I need to know what all should I do for my single family home during winter when I go for a long (week +) vacation? Heating/water/security etc. Any help is very much appreciated.
Peter_Hotton: bzb: For a short time (under two weeks or so), turn the heat down to 50 or so and have a neighbor check th ehouse twice a day. It is quite a hassle to drain alt he water out, put antifreeze int he boiler water and hpe things will not freeze or fail. Security would be handle by the house sitedr checking twice a day.
weekend_warrior: I have a couple of big scratches in a marble tile floor. Any recommendation on how to remove these and restore the shine to the floor?
Peter_Hotton: Weekend: Have the floor reground by a monument grinder.
dweller: When I bought my house the inspector suggested I replace most of the lalli (sp?) columns in the basement. An engineer later suggested I replace them with 3" steel pipe. Does that sound reasonable and how would I go about doing it?
Peter_Hotton: dweller: Why in te world would you replace Lally (a copyrighted name that stands for the inventor, a man named Lally) columns unless they were all rusted out: have someone check to seed if the columns are indeed rusted out. Lally columns are steel filled with concrete, and the engineer who told yu to repalce the columns with 3-inch steel pipe is telling you to replace the Lally columns with Lally columns. Yu have t find someone who knws what the hell he is talking about, and relaly give those columns a double and triple check.
hack: i have a squeaky kitchen floor that i'm about to cover over with a 30 laminate black and white cheesboard pattern. to stop squeaks should i screw threw old floor to joist or shim from basement with shingles
Peter_Hotton: hack: Try the shims under the floor first; they should bring the two floors together and tighten them against the joists. If not or in addition, drive screws through the top floor into the subfloor and into the joists. Have someone stand on the floor to tighten them up to make the screwing easier. Nothing like suspenders and belt to keep the floor from squeaking.
Row_House: My 1826 brick row house is attached on both sides. I have a serious second hand smoke seepage problem on the third floor where my neighbor's tenant chainsmokes on his side of the shared wall. The cigarette smell is unrelenting unless I keep windows open year-round (chilly, but at least I can breathe). What diagnostic measures so you recommend and what kinds of structural remediation might I explore? Thanks so much.
Peter_Hotton: Row_House: Caulk ever joint in that common wall: at the ceiling, sides and especially on the floor: At the top of the baseboards and at the shoe mold trim at the bottom of the baseboards.
sammywhite: Hey Peter. I finally got around to trying to fix some chipped paint on my kitchen ceiling that was caused by a leak I've since plugged up in the upstairs bathroom. Well, I wish it was just chipped paint...turns out it was actually the skim coat of plaster (1/8-inch thick) separating from the rough coat (which is still solid). I've scraped away anything loose and now I'm looking at a 4ft-by-4ft area I need to repair. Any suggestions for fixing this? I've worked with lots of joint compound in my day but never plaster. Also, the ceiling is not currently textured, but I'm not opposed to adding that if I need to hide some imperfections. Thanks!
Peter_Hotton: SAMMYWHITE: If that bad spot is down to the rough coat, then a thin layer of joint compound will work well. Do not try to texture it.
Mosi: Hi Peter, the second floor of my Craftsman style (so I am told) home is finished but the ceilings are only about 6.5 feet high. How difficult a job is it to get rid of the ceilings and replace them with ceiling closer to roof's shape?
Peter_Hotton: Mosi: It is easy to remvoe the ceiling, but not easy to remvoe the joists because the joists re keeiojng the roof from spread-eagling flat. you could put in collar ties further toward the ridge, but yu need an architect or engineer to determine what you can do. If you are able to put paseroard on the raf ters, make sure yu leave an inch of air spce between insulation and roof boards. And provide plent of ventilation from the bottom of those rafters to the ridge.
Fremont: Hi Peter: I've a 12-year-old cape with a 3-season porch the previous owner built on the original deck. The windows are just screens with plexiglass added to keep the weather out. I would like to finish it and turn it into a year-round room. Financially, I can't take on the whole project at once. Where should I begin.
Peter_Hotton: FREMONT: Start wtith the deck. It must bne strong enough to hold the extra weight of walls and windows. Indsulate under the floor with 6-inch fiberglass with the paper vapor barrier up, touching the floor above. Hold the insualtion in place with pointed wires called insulation hangers. Then you can work on the room itself, adding windows and insulated walls, then the ceiign and the3 roof. Have fun.
jimbo_2: is there an easy to cut a new slab door to install hinges
Peter_Hotton: jimbo2: An easy way to build mortises into the edge of the slab door and into the jamb? No. BGy hand it is difficult, by router it is easier.
dw09484: Hi Peter, I have a Moen faucet in my kitchen sink with a single (blended) control arm. Your lift up the arm to turn the water on and go left for warm and right for cold water. The faucet is no more than 3 years old and now it's getting hard to turn the water on and shut it off. It's the up and down motion that is affected. My question is could I lubricate that sleeve, or is it a washer that needs to be replaced? the faucet does not leak. Thank you.
Peter_Hotton: dw: TRY THE LUBE. iF IT DOES NOT OWORK, THEN CALL A PLUMBER TO REPLACE THE DEFECTIVE FAUCET OR AT LEAST REBUILD IT BEFORE REINSTALLING.
Mari: How do you repair squeaky wood stairs? My husband hammered nails, which helped, but then they start rising up, a hazard. Thanks.
Peter_Hotton: Mari: Drive galvanized finish nails through the tread and into the riser, at a 45=degree angle; one nail 3 to 6 inches in from each end; then drive another nail in the opposite direciton next to the first nail so the form an X in the riser. Two nails at each end will do. Have someone stand on the step to make sure it is tight against the riser.
speculate: hi peter thanks for chatting! we hope to tear down our collapsing 1920s garage and rebuild it ourselves. can you please speculate about whether we might need to get a building permit to do so? thank you!
Peter_Hotton: speculate: you need a permit for building, and possibly for the demo.
Betsy: Can I keep a freezer chest (or a refrigerator, for that matter) in an unheated garage? We live in Metrowest.
Peter_Hotton: Betsy: It is generlal not recommended to have a freeze or fridge in an unheated area. Call the appliance dealer to confirm.
maggie: i have a small flat surface roof and it is leaking again , they said i need to find someone who can put a rubber roof on but ..i cannot find
Peter_Hotton: maggie: Any roofer worth his salt can do a rubber roof. Keep looking.
MR: Hi Peter - Our interior doors (bedrooms, bath, etc.) are hollow wood veneer. They don't offer much in the way of privacy, in terms of not being soundproof. Is there any way to stuff something inside by cutting off the bottom or top strip, and re-hanging the door?
Peter_Hotton: MR: There are so many blocks and baffles inside the doors is that it is difficult t blow anything in the door. Your bes bet is to throw that rubbish away and put in pine paneled doors. Solid, and much more sound-resistant.
roofguy: Hi Peter, We recently found out that the ridge vent on our 6 year old house was not installed properly and we need to get it replaced. Different roofers have suggested different products, and I have not had any luck figuring out if one is truly a better design than another. Do you have any opinion about the differences between a roll ridge vent (basically a black brillo pad like material) vs. a more rigid and open baffled vent (I think the commercial name was the Air Vent: Shingle Vent II)?
Peter_Hotton: roofguy: Trust the roofers. I don't know of any ridge vent that is not effective. Anything not installed properly probably means that openings were not cut on each side of the ridge board.
Ken: Hi Peter, I have a three family house. The second floor plaster and lath board walls are in need of major repair. Many bulging areas of plaster, large holes and the only thing holding the plaster together is the wallpaper. There is blown -in insulation behind the walls. Can I leave the lath boards and install new sheetrock over the lath boards? Also can I use tyvek paper or something to keep the insulation from coming out?
Peter_Hotton: KEN: i lready have your quesiton on email. But for you, why not: you can put sheetrock on top of the wood lath, but in order to do that, you have to slip the sheetrock behind window and door casings. To keep the4 insulaiton in its palce, staple on 4 mil polyethylene, which wqill make an effective vapor barrier and save you heating fuel. It will also keep the insualtion from spewing all over the place, but the lath is probably close enough not to allow this anyway. But put in the poly, for sure.
Peter_Hotton: OK, denizens, time to go. Except for a few ding-dongs who silly questions never saw the light of day, it was a good session. See you next thursday, and email me any time at photton@globe.com
