TK: Hi Peter, Our 1975 built home has a whole bunch of sliding closet doors making access fairly difficult. Is there an easy but attractive way to replace those sliders with hinged doors without installing a whole new door frame? The existing frames have channels that the sliders go into. Thanks!
Peter_Hotton: Hi, denizens of Hotton's zoo. Today's critter is the llama, which brings us to an old Ogden Nash doggerel: The one-L lama is a priest, the two-L llama is a beast, and I will challenge anyone to come up with a three-L lama. It has been noted that a three-L lama is a severe fire or conflagration. Pooh! So let us get to TK: Yes, if your the opening is standard, such as 4 or 6 feet wide. Even if it is not, you can add to the jambs to make it standard. Folding doors (usually two to cover half the opening, come in standard sizes such as 4 feet, 6 feet,etc. I hae several and be sure t buy the more expensive doors which will work much better than the cheapo ones. You have to take down the slider hardware; the folding doors come in kits, with hardware included. The best doors come from Brosco, and you can order them through an independent lumber store.
Reginald: Hi Peter, I need your help. I think my hot water, baseboard radiators need to be blead, their clicking and ticking really loud when the water flows through them. I've read up on how to bleed them but I can't find a valve on them? Does this make any sense? I've checked about half the baseboard radiators but can't seem to find one. Any idea?
Peter_Hotton: Reginald: If the baseboard radiators have no bleeder valves, then air in the lines is probably not a problem. The ticking and clicking is the expansion and contraction of the copper tubing (or any other metal), and it can be pretty loud, especially in cold weather when the system is working hard to het up and cool down the water.
Bubba: I have a newly-built portico whose two front posts are square-shaped, not rounded. The bases of the two posts are also squared, and sit on blue stone. The bases (and perhaps the posts, not sure yet) have completely rotted, and will have to be replaced. Why has this happened? I've heard (as I'm sure is true) my builder didn't use pressure-treated wood. But I've also heard there's no such thing as pressure-treated finished board (it needs to like nice and finished). Any thoughts on what we should do next? Thanks, Peter
Peter_Hotton: Bubba: YOU WONDER WHY WOOD EXPOSED TO THE OUTDOORS ROTS? It will rot, sooner or later. Yes, p-t wood will work. Your description of your porch and posts is almost exactly what I have in my front porch. You can get 3/4 inch or 1-1/2 inch board that are not too beat-up; you should be able to cut out a clean piece to match the small size of the bases. I did it, and if I did it, anyone can. Another thought: you can buy solid vinyl boards that can be used as bases. Perfection Fence sells it among others. they are in Marshfield.
sammywhite: Good afternoon Zookeeper! What is a reasonable indoor humidity level in the winter? Mine tends to run between 30-35%, which seems okay to me, but I'm still seeing condensation/frost on a few of my storm windows. Do you think the humidity level is too high, the windows are too drafty, or a combination of both? Thanks.
Peter_Hotton: Sammy: 40 percent is considered ideal for humidity in the house in winter; seldom can you get it higher than 30-35, so yu are in good shape. Condensation on the storms indicates that house air is escaping through the main windows and is hitting the cool storms. Weatherstrip those windows and it may stop. If it just a little, forget it. Also check to see if the weep holes in the storm are open; they should be to allow water vapor to escape.
cmmsmc: We have a 5 year old home that we have been living in for 3 years. When we first moved in the house had been winterized since the house was vacant for one month. The first month we heard a very loud "foghorn " sound when the upstairs toilet flushed. This happened only twice that first winter and my husband thought that it was probably do to the winterizing. It never happened again until more recently when it is happening almost 2-3 times per week. It is only the upstairs toilet and it seems to happen in the morning . Any thoughts???
Peter_Hotton: cmmamc.c: Beats the hell outa the handyman. The shutoff valve may be making the sound, or the flow is causing vibration in some of the pipes.
wastingwater: Hi Peter, I hope you can help me. We have a shower stall that has recently begun dripping from the handheld showerhead. I checked the washers in the arm of the showerhead and also soaked the showerhead in vinegar overnight and put a paper clip through the holes in the showerhead. It is still dripping. The only way I can get it to stop, even temporarily, is to shut off the water, open up the sink and shower faucets, then close them after all the water has run out. Once I turn on the water again, though, it soon begins to drip. Do you have any suggestions? Thank you!
Peter_Hotton: WASTING WATER: Check the valve. If it is a no scald valve, they are very sensitive and taking it apart and cleaning it might help. A new valve may be needed.
MR: Hi Peter - I'm replacing a lighting fixture. There's a label on the new fixture saying "Fire
Peter_Hotton: MR: repeat your question;the above is incomplete.
Lou: I'm about to hire a contractor to remodel my kitchen, he showed me some solid maple samples and he said solid maple has only natural color and cannot be stained/painted, is that true?
Peter_Hotton: LOU: What is the solid maple for: cabinets? iF SO, SOLID MAPLE IS VERY thick and dense wood, and it can be stained with an analyne dye; it can be painted; in fact it will take primer and paint quite well.
marko: Peter, I am thinking of buying a home built around 1920. While looking in the basement, I noticed the foundation is cracked between the sill down to the floor. The crack is about 1 inch wide. The foundation is made of stone and mortar. Is this a red flag to a major problem ? or can I just fill the crack in w/ mortar ?
Peter_Hotton: If the crack does not leak, it is no problem. It can be filled with mortar from inside and outside. It is not a reason not to buy the house, in my opinion.
paul: just wanted to say I enjoy your columm and hope the Globe doesn't cut it as it has others!
Peter_Hotton: Paul: Thanks, I always appreciate a kudos or so. No, the globe is unlikely to cut me because my column goes out on the New York Times News Service, which about 350 newspapers subscribe to, and it is one of the most popular globe items in the service. Editors like me because I am free. Sorry about the lecture.
pfrodyma: I need to replace my kitchen faucet, but all water connections are almost welded shut and covered with a green mineral looking build up. What can I use to free up the connections. Thank you.
Peter_Hotton: pfrodyma (whatever that means): They are not welded, they are soldered, and heat will melt the solder and you can take the connections apart that way. The green is oxidation and is harmless, but you can remove it with vinegar.
oldsmokey: Good Afternoon! Do ventless range hoods work? My stove is on an inside wall and has absolutely no venting. I hate how I have to open windows whenever I cook. Are they easy to install?
Peter_Hotton: Oldsmokey: Yes, the ventless hoods do work if you open a window. The ood fan will get the air moving very nicely. I have one and it is the neext best thing to one that is vented to the outdoors.
Festool: Hi Peter: Non-related DIY question. What do you think of all the old triple deckers in Boston (specially East Boston) that are leaning or tilting dangerously? I think in 20 years they come down!
Peter_Hotton: Festool: If those triple deckers are wood, they are leaning because they are balloon framed, and that construction (with studs going two or three stories high and floors suspended on the studs) promotes leaning or racking; they are probably leaning on each other if they are close enough together. Brick and other masonry: forever. Also, check foundations of the wood houses; that may be a problem. I am not convinced they will go in 20 years unless global warming gets to all of us.
amcgrath: Hi Peter, I have a tankless hot water heater that runs off an oil based furnace. Lately, there seems to be a problem with getting enough hot water to take a shower. This has happened sporadically during past winters, but seems to be an almost daily occurrence now. Any we can look at ourselves or is this a problem for the oil company that services our furnace or a plumber? Thanks.
Peter_Hotton: Amcgraph: Those tankless heaters smetimes start to fail in about 20 years, when they need cleaning (to get rid of the mineral builldup that acts as an insulator) or replacing.
MR: Speaking of baseboard hot water heaters and/or supply pipes:. When ours are cooling down (at night, when we turn down the thermostat) we hear some very, very loud banging noises. Any idea what this is?
Peter_Hotton: MR: That is the expansion and contraction of he copper pipes. Some are louder than others.
211: Peter: Any suggestions how to remove coffee stains from white painted cabinets? An entire pot leaked on our counters and ran down the fronts of drawers and cabinets. I've tried just about everything - most of the staining is improved, but not gone. Thanks!
Peter_Hotton: 211: Rub the stains with Brillo, but lightly. Or, use M
K: Hi Peter, need some city living advice. We live on the second to top floor of an old brownstone. The building next door is being gutted/renovated. In December, we noticed thick coverings of plaster dust in most rooms of our condo. We sealed the floorboard/wall gaps with steelwool & moldings, but every day I do a hand sweep in various rooms and still find that fine blue-gray silt. I also wake with a scratchy throat. I contacted Public Health, who put me in contact with the building owner. He volunteered to have some of his guys vacuum, but it would have to be continuous to make a dent. I have no better suggestion of how to resolve this. The renovation is going to take many more months, and I cannot clean every day until it's done. Also, I'm not even sure how the dust is still getting in (we have electric baseboard heaters). What should we do?
Peter_Hotton: K: Sorry, it is not quite my bailiwick. The owner seems to be cooperating, so wear a mask when you it the house, change it often and sweat it out. i AM NOT BEING GLIB; I AM BEING PRACTICAL.
Deacon: How can you tell if your ridge vent is open? Should you be able to see daylight from inside the attic?
Peter_Hotton: Deacon: Some ridge vents do not show mcuh light a all. Buy a smoke stick (it creates carbon dioxide, not real smoke)and put it near he vent; if it moved toward the vent, it is operating. A candle or smoldering stick will also work, but they are fire hazards.
wastingwater: (sorry if this is a repeat question--i am not sure the first one went through) Hi Peter, I hope you can help me. We have a shower stall that has recently begun dripping from the handheld showerhead. I checked the washers in the arm of the showerhead and also soaked the showerhead in vinegar overnight and put a paper clip through the holes in the showerhead. It is still dripping. The only way I can get it to stop, even temporarily, is to shut off the water, open up the sink and shower faucets, then close them after all the water has run out. Once I turn on the water again, though, it soon begins to drip. Do you have any suggestions? Thank you!
Peter_Hotton: wastingwater: I answered your question a while back, but i cannot locate it. I just located it.
Pallykin: Can you recommend a strategy for washing towels that are sour that would remove the sour smell? "He" detergent in a front loading washing machine is not doing the trick. Thanks.
Peter_Hotton: Pallykin: Add bleach, carefully.
don: Peter; Is there a way fixing clicking ceramic floor tiles short of ripping them up?
Peter_Hotton: don: The tiles are loose. TaKE THEM UP, SCRAPE OFF ADHESIVE OR MORTAR AND RELAY THEM WITH THIN-SET MORTAR.
Peter_Hotton: OK, BUOYS AND gulls, time to go. see yu next weekk and eventually I will in the New England Home Show , THE big one aT tHE wORLD trade center late in February. come see me. And email me at photton@globe.com![]()