The full skinny on Thom Browne

I have an interview with Thom Browne in the Style section of today's Globe about his much-anticipated collaboration with Brooks Brothers, but there was only room for about half of his responses. Fortunately, there's plenty of room on the interweb to post the full interview.

For those who have somehow missed news of the collaboration, Browne has created a line of clothes for men and women based around his well-known style of wool and tweed, European-fit suits. To read the full interview, click below.

By Christopher Muther
Globe Staff

On paper, it looks like the oddest pairing since Felix Unger moved his broom and air freshener into Oscar Madison's digs. But the partnering of designer Thom Browne with retail institution Brooks Brothers will allow both parties to expand their customer base when Browne's new line, called Black Fleece, goes on sale there next month. The clothes are more expensive than the usual Brooks Brothers offerings (suits will sell for $2700), and the styles more adventurous. Browne, busy with preparations for the launch of the line and his own collection, took time to answer questions about the collaboration via e-mail this week.

What did you think when you were first approached by Brooks Brothers for a collaboration?
It was a dream come true, since I've always associated Brooks Brothers as an iconic American brand. Also, I wore Brooks Brothers, my father and my grandfather wore Brooks Brothers, so I thought that this would be a great fit. The collaboration began with Anna Wintour asking me if I were ever to collaborate with a company, who would it be. So she was kind enough to make the introduction.

When designing the collection, did you take into account that these were clothes that would be sold by a store that provides clothes to business men and women, or did approach the collection as you would one of your own?
Both my own collection, and Black Fleece start from the same classical point of view. However, I'm very conscious of making sure that Black Fleece is true to Brooks Brothers, that it is a brand under the umbrella of Brooks Brothers. For my own collection, I am only responsible to myself. I like to maintain my collection as a provocative collection that makes people think. While certainly my stamp will be visible on Black Fleece, it is meant for a wider audience.

What inspired the line for Brooks Brothers? Who did you imagine wearing the clothes as you designed them?
Since Brooks Brother is a 189-year-old company, there are plenty of references and inspirations I can draw from their archives and catalogs. The wearer of Black Fleece may not be all that different from mine, in that I imagine that it would be someone who is a true individual, and independent thinker. This is for both men and women.

I understand that the pant hems will be unfinished so the customer will be able to determine his own length, are you secretly hoping customers will
hem the pant to a Thom Browne length?
The pant hems will be unfinished as my own Thom Browne collection are for stores, but they are meant to be hemmed just to hit the shoe. The point is that there shouldn't be a break in the pant leg. I know that people today think that this is short, but if you look at the way some men wear their pants in Europe, the UK and Japan, it's really not all that unusual. You even see it when watching old American films too.

This is your first, full women's collection. Did you find any challenges in adapting men's designs to women's wear?
I have actually been making suits for women by custom order at my own shop. But for Black Fleece, again, I wanted it to be based around classical ideas that derives from men's wear. The women's suit, of course, is cut differently, but I didn't want it to be a 'guy's suit' for a woman, but a men's inspired suit cut for a woman.

There has been a lot of talk about Brooks Brothers using your name to appeal to younger, more stylish customers. Are you worried that fans
of your clothes may be turned off that you're designing for a 189-year-old store that is best known for navy blazers?
As I mentioned earlier, I've always been attracted to Brooks Brothers, so I don't see how my customers would be turned off by this collaboration. And the purpose of adding Black Fleece to the Brooks Brothers umbrella is precisely to appeal to a new audience, and for the existing Brooks Brother customer as well.

The inseam, arm length, and cut of your suits is an important part of your design. Was there a particular historical time or fashion icon that
inspired the look?
It's not a literal historical reference. I've always been drawn to the American style in the late '50s and '60s. It's more about the spirit of this time that I am drawn to, as this was the time when there was a distinct American sensibility. My silhouette is not exactly the same as this period, but it's been changed to suit what I think is appealing and different.

If there was one thing you could change about the way that American men dress, what would it be?
While I think men in general should not fuss over how they look, I do feel as though they should make more an effort to find a way to look good in their own individual, but natural way. I think it's a shame that it's become acceptable to wear jeans and a T-shirt to any place and function. I always say that what I am doing has become the anti-establishment, because the jeans and T-shirt look has become so acceptable and part of the establishment.

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